Beautifully restored architecture, peaceful courtyards and a little understated luxury in the heart of Marbella’s old town.

Marbella is a place that can conjure up all sorts of images, not all of them particularly appealing to us. But its old town is another story altogether. Whitewashed buildings, wrought-iron balconies, narrow streets, little squares and bougainvillea tumbling over walls. It’s a beautiful part of Andalucía, and tucked away on Plaza Santo Cristo is a hotel that we were very fortunate to experience.

La Fonda Heritage Hotel is, quite simply, one of the loveliest places we’ve stayed.

I should say from the outset that this isn’t a budget hotel. Far from it. Our stay was a very generous treat from friends who were visiting, and although we weren’t paying for the room ourselves, we certainly appreciated what a special experience it was. It’s somewhere I’d happily recommend for an occasion, a celebration or simply a few days of being thoroughly spoilt. As with many hotels in this part of Spain, staying outside the busiest season can make the price considerably more appealing.

a beautiful building with quite a history

One of the things that makes La Fonda so special is the building itself, or rather, the collection of historic buildings that make up the hotel. Its story stretches back centuries, with the site having served various purposes before becoming a hotel in the 1960s. It later gained a reputation as a fashionable Marbella meeting place, and its restaurant held a Michelin star from 1978 until 1995.

After years of neglect, the buildings underwent an extensive restoration, during which remarkable architectural features were uncovered and preserved. Ancient walls, arches, frescoes and courtyards have all become part of the hotel’s new life, alongside contemporary design and furnishings. It’s now part of Relais & Châteaux, a collection of distinctive hotels with an emphasis on character, hospitality and a genuine sense of place. Having stayed there, I can understand why.

first impressions

From the outside, La Fonda is everything I love about traditional Andalusian architecture. Whitewashed walls, dark wrought iron, substantial wooden doors and shutters, with beautiful greenery in large pots softening the whole building. We were renovating our own house at the time, so naturally I was taking mental notes before we’d even made it through the entrance.

Inside, the attention to detail is wonderful. Rather than walking straight into a conventional hotel reception, you find yourself in a space that feels much more like an exceptionally beautiful home. Comfortable sofas, inviting chairs, carefully chosen furniture, objects, textures and soft lighting all contribute to a feeling of quiet elegance.

There are high ceilings, arches and ceramic tiled floors, with contemporary furnishings sitting comfortably alongside the building’s Moorish and Andalusian influences. Nothing feels overdone, and despite being right in the heart of Marbella’s old town, the atmosphere is wonderfully peaceful. It’s the sort of place where you immediately begin to relax.

courtyards, greenery and a room to remember

Our room overlooked the courtyard garden at the rear of the hotel, which was every bit as lovely as the interiors. There were different little areas for sitting, relaxing, eating or enjoying a drink, surrounded by generous planting and beautiful pots. And there was a lush green wall, which made us smile, as we’d had something similar at our house in Istria.

Inside, our room was just as carefully considered. A large, wonderfully comfortable bed, crisp white monogrammed linen and all those little details that make staying somewhere special feel like a genuine treat.

And then there was the bathroom. I’ve always loved white metro tiles, and this bathroom had them in abundance. We’d used them with black grout in our house in West Didsbury, much to the delight of our builder, and were considering something similar for our new home in Andalucía. The shower had black Crittall-style doors, another feature we’d already decided upon for our the ground floor of our house, so it was rather lovely to see the combination working so beautifully.

Pristine white sanitary ware, black accents, fluffy robes, slippers and gorgeous toiletries completed the picture. Everything felt luxurious without being ostentatious, which is quite a difficult balance to achieve.

breakfast, olive oil and a little more indulgence

Breakfast was à la carte and every bit as good as we’d hoped. Eggs cooked however you liked them, hams, cheeses, breads, preserves, juices and excellent coffee. Beautifully presented, delicious and served without any sense of hurry.

The hotel also sells its own olive oil, which was always going to be a temptation for me. I have a particular weakness for beautifully bottled olive oils, and this one came home with us. Happily, it tasted every bit as good as it looked.

As well as the hotel’s restaurant and rooftop bar, there’s La Bodega de la Fonda, a cosy restaurant just across the square. It’s a more informal option, serving Spanish favourites such as tortilla, croquettes, meatballs and Iberian ham, with the added pleasure of sitting in one of the prettiest little corners of the old town.

somewhere worth treating yourself to

What stayed with me most about La Fonda wasn’t any single feature, although there were plenty to admire. It was the feeling of the place. The restoration is beautiful, the interiors are thoughtful, the setting is wonderful and everything works together to create somewhere that feels genuinely special. There’s a sense of calm and comfort that you don’t always find, even in expensive hotels.

It’s certainly a treat rather than an everyday overnight stop, and I’d suggest looking at dates outside the main holiday season if you’re hoping to make it a little more affordable. But for a special occasion, or simply because you fancy staying somewhere rather lovely, La Fonda would be very high on my list.

And if, like me, you enjoy beautiful buildings, considered interiors and a hotel that feels connected to its surroundings, you may find yourself taking rather a lot of photographs. Possibly even of the bathroom tiles.