An unexpectedly lovely hotel overlooking Place d’Assas, in a French city we knew very little about. If only we’d arrived a couple of days earlier…

One of the loveliest things about our late summer road trip through France was discovering places we knew very little about. We’d visited Paris several times over the years, but beyond the capital, our knowledge of France was surprisingly limited. Nîmes was one of those places. We knew it had an impressive Roman history, with an extraordinary collection of ancient monuments, but that was about the extent of our knowledge. So, when we arrived on a Tuesday afternoon and discovered that our hotel overlooked a beautiful, tree-lined square surrounded by bars and restaurants, we were feeling rather pleased with ourselves. It looked as though we’d landed in exactly the right place. Unfortunately, our timing was spectacularly bad…

nîmes : a city recovering from a very big party

What we hadn’t realised was that we’d arrived immediately after an extended weekend of celebrations marking the inclusion of the Maison Carrée on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There had been music, street food, fireworks, parties and all manner of festivities. The whole city had apparently been celebrating, and by the time we arrived, everyone seemed to have decided that a couple of days’ rest was thoroughly deserved. Which meant that all those fabulous-looking bars and restaurants we’d been admiring were closed.

Everywhere. Well, almost everywhere.

We eventually found a lovely Italian restaurant, so dinner was rescued, and we managed to see some of the city’s remarkable Roman architecture. But it was rather amusing to discover that we’d arrived in Nîmes just as Nîmes had decided it needed a holiday. Fortunately, we’d booked a hotel that turned out to be something of a destination in its own right.

le royal hôtel : a little different from the ordinary

The Royal Hôtel occupies a former nineteenth-century cloister on the edge of Place d’Assas, just a short walk from the Maison Carrée. It’s a beautiful old building, full of character, and the renovation has been handled with a lovely balance of traditional features and contemporary design. There’s nothing particularly predictable about the interiors, which is exactly what appealed to us. The communal spaces have a slightly quirky, boutique feel, with interesting artwork, unexpected details and a sense that someone has actually thought about the atmosphere they wanted to create. It feels relaxed rather than formal, stylish without being precious, and quite different from the rather anonymous hotels that can make travelling feel a little interchangeable. We liked it immediately.

We’d booked a superior double room, and it was enormous. There was plenty of space to spread out, a very generous bathroom and an excellent walk-in shower, which is always appreciated after a day spent travelling. But the real delight was the view. Our room had huge shuttered windows overlooking Place d’Assas, a wonderfully elegant square filled with mature trees, fountains and sculptures. I have a particular affection for cities that value their trees, allowing them to grow and flourish rather than regarding them as something to be regularly chopped down or severely pruned. And this square was a beautiful example of just how much they contribute to a city. Looking out through those enormous windows, with the rooftops and architecture beyond, it was difficult not to feel rather delighted with our choice of hotel. Even if the restaurants below were resolutely refusing to open…

interesting interiors & a sense of humour

One of the things we particularly enjoyed about the Royal Hôtel was its artwork. The corridors and staircases were filled with playful, sometimes unexpected pieces, giving the hotel a personality of its own. There was a photograph of The Rolling Stones, suitably dressed as matadors, looking ready to visit the city bullring, alongside other artwork that gave the interiors a contemporary edge. It’s the kind of detail that can make an enormous difference to a hotel. Rather than simply providing somewhere to sleep, the building becomes part of the experience. And in a city with such an extraordinary architectural history, it felt particularly appropriate that an old building had been given a new lease of life without losing its character.

breakfast at the royal hôtel

Breakfast was included in our room rate and was served in a lovely dining room, which seemed to double as an informal working space. A couple of people were already settled at tables with their laptops when we arrived. Rather than a buffet, breakfast was presented individually on trays, with fresh croissants, bread, muesli, yoghurt, fruit, preserves and other little accompaniments. It was simple, beautifully presented and rather clever. The individually packaged items presumably helped avoid unnecessary waste, as anything unopened could potentially be used again. There was certainly more than enough food for us, and with plenty of coffee available, it was a very pleasant way to begin the day. Nothing overly elaborate, but thoughtfully done. Which, when I think about it, rather sums up the hotel itself.

exploring the roman city of nîmes

Although our timing meant that we didn’t experience Nîmes at its liveliest, we did manage to see some of the architecture for which the city is so well known.

The Maison Carrée is an extraordinarily well-preserved Roman temple, built around two thousand years ago, and it’s quite something to encounter a building of that age in the middle of a modern French city. Then there’s the Arena of Nîmes, another remarkable survivor from the Roman period, which continues to be used for events and performances. Unfortunately, bullfighting is still among them, something I find particularly difficult to reconcile with the beauty and history of the building.
The Pont du Gard, the spectacular Roman aqueduct outside the city, is another of the region’s great historical landmarks, although we didn’t visit it on this occasion.

What struck us most was how much history is woven into the everyday fabric of Nîmes. These aren’t simply isolated monuments tucked away behind gates; they’re part of the city’s identity. And having arrived knowing relatively little about the place, we left wishing we’d had more time to explore. Preferably when everything was open.

A city worth returning to…

We found the Royal Hôtel to be excellent value for money, beautifully located and full of the kind of character we particularly appreciate. Our room was spacious and comfortable, the interiors were interesting without trying too hard, and the setting overlooking Place d’Assas was absolutely lovely. It was also an excellent base for exploring the historic centre, with some of the city’s most important Roman monuments within easy walking distance.

Of course, our experience dates from September 2023, so room rates, facilities and breakfast arrangements may have changed since our visit. But the things that made it memorable – the building, the location and the character of the interiors  – are what I’d look for again.

As for Nîmes, I think we owe it another visit. We saw enough to know that it’s a beautiful city, but not quite enough to feel that we’d properly experienced it. Arriving immediately after one of its biggest celebrations was unfortunate, although it did give us a story to tell. And perhaps there’s something rather nice about leaving a place knowing that you’d happily return. Next time, though, I might check the local calendar before booking.