by Helen | Oct 11, 2023 | Renovation
When we bought our house in Istria in 2016, it looked very different to how it does today. It was kind of quarter renovated. The roof was new. The guttering was new. Windows had been fitted. And that was just about it. But, we saw the potential – even seeing ahead, to how the actual entrance to the house could look. Which, at the time admittedly, as awful as it was, wasn’t number one priority. But, recent works have meant that I’ve looked back to 2016 and reminded myself of what we – and visitors – were greeted with…
To be fair, once we moved in, this SHOCKING entrance to the house was power washed very quickly, immediately making things look slightly better. But, with a full on house renovation, everything else took priority and it was a good while before we even thought about what to do with here, apart from add a few potted plants, in the early days.
The biggest improvement came, when we had the well, which originally sat inside the house, relocated to the platform outside the front door – but it still took us quite a while longer to do anything further.
There was a big gap between the well and the front wall of the house, which wasn’t really that dangerous – it wasn’t too high and we kept away from the edge, but it definitely didn’t look great. So, we came up with a solution and fixed a wooden palette in place, which had the advantage of planters being able to be hung from it, so immediately making the entrance look a lot cheerier.
The concrete patio, in front of the house, and steps were painted in an attempt to make them look better. However, in hindsight, it was a costly error as it took an awful lot of specialist outdoor paint and within a year it had started to peel and crack. We also painted without addressing first the real issue – the terrible state of the steps. These had been poorly made and were definitely in an unfinished state, something we should have dealt with, but we didn’t, until very recently, because at the time we couldn’t find anyone to do the work, and we certainly couldn’t re-concrete them ourselves.
However, having finally found a reputable, and quite frankly brilliant, builder we added this small(ish) task to his list. And what a transformation. As well as the whole of the garden area being covered in white pea-gravel, and the side access road covered in larger white stones, the steps now look very smart, especially as the paint has been reapplied correctly. The window shutters, which were way past their best despite our best DIY efforts, have been removed. They were so dilapidated that we couldn’t even close some of them, so the decision was made to just get rid. We did have new shutters costed but as they were rarely closed – we prefer light flooding in – we decided against having them made. Why we didn’t tackle this a long time ago is a mystery, but we’ve tackled it now, and what a massive difference it has all made to the entrance of the house, with relatively little effort on our part and all done not too expensively, either…
Obviously, the painted wooden palette has been long gone and so we also requested that a wall be built between the well and the house wall and painted the same colour as the steps and the small balcony outside the front door, and we left the builder to it, thinking “it’s just a wall”. But look at this beautiful join. The way the wall just melts into the well. Now, that is attention to detail.
So, another job ticked off the House List. And it’s ironic really isn’t it, that when you just start to get your house exactly as you’ve always wanted, your head and heart shift, and you’re planning to be on the move again…
by Helen | Sep 15, 2023 | Lifestyle
Over the years, our gardens have evolved. The front garden has become more private as we have had walls constructed, not only to denote our boundaries, but also to provide us with privacy. The rear garden had been designed from scratch, after the demolition of our small stone cottage. Over the years we’ve tried to add colour and interest, by planting bulbs and having potted plants with many kinds of blooms and flowers. But, come winter, we always felt that the gardens were a bit on the depressing side. No more colour. Bare plants. Fallen leaves on concrete or faded bark chippings.
So, this year, with two new gardens which fill us with so much happiness because they are both EXACTLY what we want, we’ve ditched the colour and gone for green, The new walls are rendered concrete and painted white and we wanted to create a feeling evocative of the Mediterranean – southern Italy, Greek islands and Andalucia. No more pinks and yellows and reds and purple. Just green. Structural in design and with the promise of still looking largely the same in the winter. With white walls, white pea gravel all around the gardens and house and minimal furniture, I think we can now sit/lie back and enjoy the remains of the summer in our structural havens…
A tiny splash of colour – silvery grey – with the succulents, which are now tumbling out of this beautiful vintage, wrought iron basket.
An IKEA yucca plant, which seems to be thriving well in its new concrete planter.
Australian laurel, planted up in the well which we re-located to outside the front door.
Yucca Gloriosa : Spanish Dagger plant
Potted bay trees
Pennisetum alopecuroides – fountain grasses
Miniature ornamental grasses
Miniature potted palms, in concrete pots
Aromatic potted rosemary
Potted bamboos
Tall, potted bamboos outside the garden wall, for additional coverage
Potted olive trees
Late summer evening in the garden
The one plant we have made an exception for, is the flowering jasmine. We have two of these, already quite tall when we bought them, which are potted and sit on the small balcony outside the french doors. They are now intertwining beautifully, meaning that we have a natural screen beginning to hide the building work beyond our garden. Our neighbour is building a small stone cottage, and we’re at the stage where the roof is about to go on, so we need to disguise the crane – and this flowering jasmine is definitely beginning to hit the brief.
by Helen | Sep 13, 2023 | Lifestyle
When we go to Lidl – either here, or in Slovenia, which is probably the closest one to us – and they have a Special Week, we often stock up. When it’s Greek Week, the trolley is full of smoky tuna, halloumi, pitta breads, olive oils. Spanish Week and it’s olives, Manchego, tortillas, chorizo. Italian Week – and well, we’re just in heaven so everything gets chucked in, even though we can be in an Italian supermarket in Trieste in forty minutes. Recently, alongside French Week – Brie overload! – the store was also having an Irish Week. And there, staring out at me from the cooler section – packs of rashers of smoked bacon. Now, we don’t eat a lot of meat at all, but a smoked bacon butty is utterly irresistible and so with a use by date at the end of September, we bought a few packs to keep us going. And with a glut of bacon and brie, I set about finding a recipe which would use these ingredients, and found this delicious bake online.
With very few ingredients, and little to prepare, it is the most mouth-watering recipe. Perfect for this time of year, as still quite light but with a hint of autumn about it. If you’re a lover of bacon and brie, I’d definitely recommend giving this a go…
what you’ll need
- pack of smoked bacon rashers
- about 8 medium sized potatoes, very thinly sliced
- brie, sliced up, with rind left on
- tub of single cream (500ml)
- about 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
- fresh thyme
- salt and pepper, to season
what you’ll need to do
- Pre-heat the oven to 200°c;
- Place a large, oven-proof frying pan over high heat then fry the bacon until crisp and golden;
- Remove from the pan, leaving the rendered fat and add olive oil as necessary (so that your first layer of potatoes don’t stick to the bottom of the pan);
- Layer the potatoes, brie cheese (reserve a few slices for the topping), bacon and garlic in the pan, seasoning the layers as you go;
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Season the cream with salt and pepper then pour over the potatoes, and sprinkle the fresh thyme across the top;
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Cover the potatoes with foil/a lid and place in the oven;
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Allow to bake for 45 minutes or until the potatoes are soft;
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Top with the remaining brie cheese then place back in the oven and allow to bake until golden brown on top;
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Remove from the oven and serve.
This recipe – and more – can be found here. Photos of the bake also come from the original recipe, as once served, this was so, so tasty, we wolfed it down, without even thinking of taking any snaps. Served with warm, crusty bread, it was just perfect and will be definitely made again in our house.
by Helen | Sep 6, 2023 | Lifestyle
A while ago I discovered the easiest bread recipe using just four ingredients – plain flour, baking soda, salt and 0% fat plain drinkable yogurt. For the record, Siggis yoghurt is the best. By far.
Since making the initial loaf, we’ve experimented with different ingredients and toppings, and this recent one, was just an absolute belter. It does add to your list of ingredients, but the taste is out of this world. The original recipe is here so just follow that and add the additional ingredients at the mixing stage, to produce the most wonderful cheesy bread. Added to the bread mix, were very generous portions of strong cheddar cheese (cubed) and slices of pungent French blue cheese and a good lot of parmesan. Chopped fresh rosemary was also added. Before putting in the oven, more parmesan cheese was grated across the top, and coarse rock salt sprinkled over. About ten minutes before the loaf was finished cooking, a couple of sprigs of fresh rosemary were added to the top, to infuse the aroma and taste.
I’d like to say we waited until evening to serve with dinner – unfortunately, the loaf was eaten as soon as it had cooled down sufficiently, for lunch. And that’s the worst thing about this bread – there’s no way you could make it and hope to keep it until later. It’s far too delicious for that, but luckily it’s so quick and easy, you could always make another for dinner…
by Helen | Sep 4, 2023 | Italy, Travel
Redipuglia is pretty unremarkable Italian town, on the road out from Trieste. We usually pass through it on our way to IKEA. It’s one of those Italian towns where the houses sit alongside the road – it always seems as if everyone lives on the roadside, as detached houses, usually with the shutters closed to keep the heat out in the summer and in, in the winter, string out along the road. Every now and again, there’ll be a bar or a store. But nothing much really to write home about. Until you are just about to leave Redipuglia, and you are greeted with the most astonishing sight. Rising up from the road, a stepped monument, topped with three huge crosses.The Memorial of Redipuglia, Italy’s largest and most majestic memorial dedicated to the soldiers who fell in the Great War. Locally referred to as Sacrario Militare di Redipuglia, is the largest war memorial in Italy and also among the most significant war shrines in the entire world.
Built on the slopes of Mt. Sei Busi and designed by architect Giovanni Greppi and sculptor Giannino Castiglioni, it was opened on 18th September 1938 after ten years of construction. This massive monument, also known as Memorial “of the Hundred Thousands”, accommodates the remains of 100,187 soldiers who fell in battle in the surrounding areas; some of them had been initially buried on Colle Sant’Elia nearby. Strongly advocated by the fascist regime, this monument intended to celebrate the sacrifice of the fallen soldiers. It is structured on three levels, symbolising the army descending from the sky, led by its Commander towards the Path of Heroes. On the top, the three crosses evoke Mt. Golgotha and the crucifixion of Christ.
Twenty two large steps (2.5m high,12m wide) rise up from the foot of the memorial, containing the remains of 39,857 identified soldiers in alphabetical order. Each burial niche is surmounted by the wording “Present”. In the centre of the first large step, you can find the niche of the only woman buried here, a nurse named Margherita Kaiser Parodi Orlando. At the end of the lateral stairs and the large steps, two large tombs covered with bronze plates contain the remains of over 60 thousand unknown soldiers. Past them, you can reach the top of the memorial and visit a small chapel which houses a “Deposition” and the panels of the Stations of the Cross by sculptor Castiglioni. Three bronze crosses stand above the chapel.
In the rear of the last large step there are two museum rooms, with pictures of the first Memorial of Redipuglia, documents, war relics and paintings by Ciotti that used to decorate the tomb of the Duke of Aosta, originally located in the chapel on the top of St. Elias Hill. There are many personal artefacts, housed in glass cabinets, which really convey the sense of horror of the losses. Pocket watches, rings, spectacles, medals, shoes, photographs, hand written notes. All belonging to someone, now long buried.
The memorial and museum rooms are free to visit and is open to the public 24 hours a day. If you don’t fancy the climb from the bottom – and it’s not overly arduous, I promise you – there is a car park at the top of the site. It’s not very clearly marked and you do need to cross the train track, but it does cut out a lot of walking if your main aim is to get to the top quickly. I’m really pleased that we finally took the time to actually stop here, and not just drive past. A very sobering and evocative tribute to the many fallen in the war.
by Helen | Aug 29, 2023 | Croatia, Travel
Although we’ve now lived in Croatia (Istria, to be exact) over six years, and we’ve done lots of exploring, we are still yet to discover the hotspots of Split and Dubrovnik and the more southerly islands. It’s not out of lack of interest or for want of trying, but we’re still finding so much to still discover closer to home. And especially now that Croatia has joined the Schengen Zone, living very close to the Slovenian border, we find that heading north or over into Italy, is so easy. But, we’ve not neglected the more southerly parts of Croatia, having visited Zadar two or three times, Murter Island and the beautiful city of Šibenik. About four hours down the Adriatic highway, this is a real gem of a city – especially if you love your history, as it is steeped in it.
It’s the perfect city for wandering, as its centre is compact and you can just lose yourself along the winding, cobbled streets. You’ll never get lost as you can always head back down to the sea to get your bearings, or just keep the imposing UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Sibenik Cathedral of St. James, as your marker, as it dominates the skyline of the old town. Built over 105 years (1431-1536) in Gothic and Renaissance styles, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is considered one of the best examples of medieval architecture. There are a few unique features to this Cathedral such as its walls which were built entirely of stone with no mortar or other binding material. On the outside of the walls are 71 sculpted human heads of some of Sibenik’s residents during the period of the Cathedral’s construction – and this was quite something at the time, as ordinary people were given recognition for an important development in the city.
The town hall is located across from the Cathedral of St James, on the city’s main medieval square, the Square of the Republic of Croatia. It’s a Venetian-styled building, resplendent with elaborate carvings. Although the Town Hall was rebuilt after it was damaged during World War II, it still resembles the original one which was built in the middle of the 16th century. The cafe style restaurant is a perfect vantage point for viewing the Cathedral and doing a spot of people watching.
The Old Town’s streets, paved with now shiny white marble, are filled with beautiful old stone buildings and pretty squares full of small boutiques, souvenir shops, modern cafes, restaurants, laid-back bars, museums, old churches and monasteries. Sibenik is a walking-friendly city because it’s mostly pedestrianised. The lack of cars, whizzing around, is a real bonus, and the city feels tranquil and peaceful as noise is really reduced. The promenade fringes the edges of the Old Town, so it’s very easy to be in the beating heart of the city one minute and sitting by the sea, the next.
We stayed for three nights (all paid, no freebies etc etc) at the absolutely stunning Life Palace Hotel, located right in the centre of the old town, on Ulica Kralja Tomislava. Right outside the 15th-century Marenci Palace, is a beautiful little piazza, which was the perfect place for an evening drink, and breakfast in the morning. With only seventeen rooms, this hotel could really be described as boutique, with its very sympathetic restoration, combining the heritage of the building and some luxurious modern touches, including a little roof top spa.
With a history as rich as Dubrovnik’s, although definitely more tranquil, Šibenik is perfect for a mini city break on its own, or as stopover if you are exploring the nearby Kornati islands. Whatever you do, though, don’t overlook it. You won’t regret it.
by Helen | Aug 29, 2023 | Renovation
Ever since I saw this photo, I knew exactly what the garden at the rear of the house needed to look like. And, luckily, our builder was totally on board and could see the vision we had. Now, four months on, I couldn’t be happier with the way it has turned out. For six years, we’ve tinkered around the edges of the space at the back of the house, not really knowing what to do with it, because we weren’t entirely sure what we wanted to do with the little stone house we’d bought from a neighbour, to increase our footprint and to ensure that no-one else could buy so close to our property. It’s been through various stages of “renovation” but nothing we did ourselves, ever seemed right, as our attempts were pretty amateurish because we aren’t builders.
However, I think even our pretty unprofessional attempts did improve the area, from what it was like when we first moved in. The photos above show what sat behind our house – and it was in this state for a good three of four years, as we focused on other renovation priorities. But gradually we did start to tackle this tumbledown mess, and clear it, whilst still working out what we were going to do with it eventually. Would we renovate it? Would we demolish it? We kept coming back to these questions, as we tinkered around the edges, but we know that either option could be a potential money pit. So, the house walls were cleared of the years of accumulated vines – we couldn’t touch the roof, as this was too unstable and would need a specialist who knew what they were doing, and the area around was dug out and cleared, too. White stones were laid and conifer trees, in pots, were finally put in place, to create a “wall” for privacy and also to demarcate our boundaries.
But, even when cleared, this still seemed very makeshift and I think our minds were made up over Christmas 2022, when, in high winds, some of the roof tiles and stones were dislodged and fell into the house. It was becoming a potential danger and so we set about planning the demolition and creation of a private, walled garden. Demolition work started in February 2023, and we thought that by the start of spring, we’d have a beautiful walled garden. Wrong! It was in fact August, by the time it was all completed. partly due to a prolonged rainy spell in the spring and also due to me asking for lots of changes. I do probably need to stay off Instagram and Pinterest.
However, thanks to our two lovely builders, we do now have the garden of our dreams. We also took the decision to have the living room window (middle one in the photo above) replaced with French doors and with a small balcony leading out and steps down into the garden. During the initial stages of the build, a neighbour also insisted that everything stop and we have our boundaries double checked, causing a pretty costly delay. But hey, that’s all behind us now and we’ve been able to totally kick back and enjoy our Mediterranean inspired garden. The absolute garden of our dreams.
by Helen | Aug 17, 2023 | Slovenia, Travel
Piran, on the tiny sliver of Slovenian coastline, is very close to our home – about 35kms, through beautiful countryside and across the border, which now, thanks to Croatia joining the Schengen Zone, is open and we have free passage. Hurrah! Recently, we visited this lovely coastal town, and rather than heading home, we decided to stay over, and opted for Art Hotel Tartini, located right on Tartini Square, overlooking the Adriatic. The square is named after one of Piran’s most famous sons – Giuseppe Tartini, born in 1692, an Italian composer and violinist of the Baroque era. A statue of Tartini now stands in the main square.
Art Hotel Tartini sits on the main square, and its location is perfect if you want to be in the hustle and bustle. Although, to be fair, we’re not talking a town which is rammed – when we stayed, in July, by the evening, the square was pleasantly busy, as a lot of day-trippers had left and it was evident that lots of locals were out and about. The hotel has been renovated and is quirky and in places, really beautiful.
Photo credit : www.arthoteltartini.com
It’s definitely what we’d think of as an “art” hotel – unique pieces of original artwork on the walls, by renowned Slovenian artist Jaša, and lots of graffiti inspired work on communal walls and floors. Yes, do look down! The communal areas – reception and dining area, in particular – are utterly gorgeous.
We booked a room which was described as a double room, with a balcony and sea view – which to be fair, was accurate, but the balcony was tiny. Only room for two small fold up wooden chairs. As we were only there for one night, this was not an issue for us, but for anyone staying any longer, hoping for a balcony to sit out on, and enjoy the views, it might be worth knowing that there isn’t the space to do this…
View from our room
To be fair, the room did have a balcony…
Perhaps the best way to sum up this hotel is to read the review I did of it, after our stay – which I titled “An Enigma of a Hotel”…
This hotel is a bit of an enigma. In a stunning location, right on Tartini Square, and with the most beautiful communal areas – lovely artwork, furnishings etc. The breakfast area is lovely – as is breakfast. Unfortunately, when we stayed (a Monday in July), both the restaurant and the roof top terrace were closed. We couldn’t ascertain if this was because it was of the day of the week, or if one/both of them are permanently closed. Such a shame because we could see the bar & it looked fab. So, why an enigma? Well, the refurbishment has been executed brilliantly in places – we particularly liked the floors. These had obviously originally been carpeted and glued down – and we all know how difficult carpet glue is to remove. Well, if we’re right, the hotel came up with an ingenious solution – cover in resin! The result was very unique and individual, and in some places, messages are written on the floors. Look down in the lift. Our room was quite basic, but clean – a very comfy bed with great linen, and ample storage if you were staying a few nights. We did have a balcony & a sea view, as requested, but the balcony was very small. Only enough space for two fold up wooden chairs, so if your idea is to relax on the balcony, you might want to check out what else is available in the hotel. The bathroom was a bit strange & I’m still undecided if it was “arty” (shabby chic), or just a bit in need of some TLC. Original tiles have obviously been painted over & some are peeling in places. A strange contraption – for air con maybe? – made intermittent noises which were annoying, but I have to say we didn’t hear them in the night. Wi-Fi kicked in OK but then was very inconsistent – not an issue for us as we were only there for a night, but any longer and I think you’d want it looking at.
However, even with the little “quirks”, there was sufficient about Art Hotel Tartini to make it a very enjoyable stay, and we wouldn’t hesitate to book again, next time we’re over in Piran. Special mention must go to the breakfast – an extensive collection of good quality food, including cold meats, cheeses, pastries, eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, yogurts, juices, coffees. I think I also spotted a bottle or two of prosecco, if a Buck’s Fizz is to your fancy in the morning.
It’s also worth knowing that there is NO public parking at all in the centre of Piran. There is a large car park about 1km away, where you need to park up and either take a stroll along the sea front, or hop on of the free shuttle buses where you can get off at Tartini Square, just opposite the hotel. The hotel also validates the parking ticket on check-out and you receive a discount.
by Helen | Aug 16, 2023 | Renovation
It seems as if we have once again, shared our home and garden, with builders, for a considerable period of time. But we haven’t really – it’s only been four months – but we’ve been so keen and excited to get to the finishing line, that it just seems like we’ve lived in construction chaos for a long time. It’s now all done at the rear of the house – the last lick of paint has been applied, the last payment tranche has been made and the plants and sunbeds and accessories are all in place. And finally being used! I suppose we should be delighted that all work has finished, but it never really does, does it? And, so the builders are back – this time tackling the steps and small balcony at the front of the house. An area which should have been done way back, as the steps are horrible, the concrete has cracks in it and the balcony has no wall, so anyone could take a tumble. But anyway, back to the rear of the house and how our beautiful garden emerged…
Next up. How we designed and filled our Mediterranean inspired garden…
by Helen | Jul 6, 2023 | Lifestyle
We made this last night, and it is utterly delicious. It’s super simple to make and requires very few ingredients that you’d probably have in the cupboard anyway.
what you’ll need
- 2 tbsp butter/olive oil
- 1 onion finely chopped
- 4 garlic cloves crushed
- 500 g (1lb) mushrooms sliced
- 1 tsp heaped fresh thyme
- 1 tbsp flour
- 300ml cups stock (we used veggie stock)
- 250 ml sour cream
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard (didn’t have this & leaving it out made no difference to its taste)
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp black pepper
- Fresh parsley to serve
We think it was the fresh thyme which made this so delicious – there are very few herbs/seasonings in it, but it packed a punch taste-wise. Well worth using the fresh stuff if you can, as it tastes, for some reason, very different to any other mushroom stroganoff we’ve made/had in a restaurant.
what you’ll need to do
- Heat butter/olive oil over low heat;
- Add the chopped onions and sliced mushrooms and cook for 15 minutes until the mushrooms are golden brown and the onions are soft;
- Add the garlic and thyme leaves then sauté for another minute;
- Stir in the flour and cook for a minute then pour in the stock and whisk until the flour has been mixed into the liquid;
- Reduce the heat then gently simmer for a few minutes until the sauce has thickened slightly then stir in the sour cream (and mustard);
- Season with salt and pepper and cook for another minute or two;
- Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary then serve over pasta or rice with a sprinkle of fresh parsley.
Served with rice and crusty bread – and a nice, crisp white wine – it was a lovely summery meat-free dinner dish. Highly recommended.
Image : www.simply-delicious-food.com
