by Helen | Jan 5, 2023 | Croatia, Travel
When we moved to Istria in 2017, we knew that at some point in the future, the country would be allowed to join the Schengen Zone and there would be no more border checks. We kept checking online to check developments and we had some time in 2024-2025 in our heads as the point when things would happen.
Then the Pandemic happened and travel was severely curtailed, for some weeks not being permitted at all, and certainly not cross border. Then in 2021, the UK was out of Europe, and being UK citizens, we were suddenly classified as “third country nationals”, and our Croatian residency had to be renewed again, under the new terms of the Withdrawal Agreement. A knock on effect of this, was that once travel was permitted again, we had to not only show our passports, but we had to have them stamped when we entered Schengen – so when we crossed into Slovenia – and stamped again, when we re-entered Croatia. In the early days, when everything was new, we found ourselves having to ask for our passports to be stamped, as sometimes the border police didn’t seem too clear on the new systems. We had to ask, because if we’d been stamped one way but not the other, the new 90 day rule could have been applied to us, even though we have Croatian residency. It has got a lot easier and we – and the border police on both sides – have become familiar with the stamping process, but it’s still been a bit of a hassle, and has always made us feel a tiny bit worried that maybe we weren’t doing the right thing.
Another issue has been that since January 2021, we’ve not been able to us our nearest border, which is only 10 minutes away, because this is deemed to be for local use only. And because we are “third country nationals” we don’t fall into the category of locals. So, we’ve had to use the main border crossings with Slovenia, which in the winter are OK, as traffic is light, but in the summer have been a nightmare, as thousands of tourists head into Istria, and northern Croatia. We avoided crossing as much as we possibly could for the last two summers, but when Italy is only half an hour away, sometimes we couldn’t resist. Our worst crossing was in July of this year, when we were returning from IKEA – it was blisteringly hot, there was no shade and it took over two hours to travel what would normally take us about five minutes. Schengen membership couldn’t come soon enough, so I was ecstatic when I read that Croatia had finally passed all of the tests set and that it would probably on a matter of a rubber stamping procedure when the EU council in mid-December.
Finally, much sooner than we thought, the decision was made that Croatia would be accepted into the Schengen area, and we spent the last two weeks counting down the days until we knew that we had got over very last stamp in our passports. It all happened at the stroke of midnight 31 December/1 January, and I knew it was real when I saw an Instagram post by our local mayor, shaking hands with his Slovenian counterpart from Koper and a raised barrier.
And, on 4th January 2023, we made our first crossing into Slovenia, without having to show passports or receive exit and entry stamps. The booths, normally with a number of border police, were empty and closed. And signs had been erected, in a number of languages, declaring “Free Passage”. It was an absolute joy to once again be able to drive into Slovenia where the local border crossing point had been in operation until January 1st…
And, on the way back, we drove via one of the larger crossings we’ve had to use for the last couple of years. Open border and free flowing traffic – which will be amazing in the summer!
by Helen | Jan 5, 2023 | Spain, Travel
On a drive, high up in the Andalucian hills, above the white washed town of Frigiliana and the coastal town of Torox, we spotted some very unusual shapes ahead of us. White domes, almost hobbit-like, overlooking the sea. From the roadside, they looked a bit forlorn, and we thought that they were possibly abandoned, so of course, we just had to find out what they were…
Turns out, they’re not abandoned buildings after all. They’re a complex of hobbit-like, cave dwellings which combine to form Los Caracoles (The Snails…), an amazing and unique hotel, with panoramic views over the Axarquia area of Andalucía, which we just had to investigate. Although we were staying in Nerja, we made a booking to explore – and each time we have been back in the area we’ve ensured that we’ve incorporated a stay at Los Caracoles, as we were so enchanted by it and its surroundings. The complex is made up of five Snails (bungalows), each consisting of a master bedroom, a living room, bathroom and balcony, plus six double rooms with en suite bathroom and terrace. We’ve stayed a number of times and so have experienced both the Snails and the double rooms, and all have been pretty magical. The restaurant is located in a snail shaped dining room, with a spacious outdoor terrace. All tables have spectacular vantage points with views across the Andalucian hills, sprinkled with many pueblos blancos, and down to the sparkling Mediterranean sea. Landscaped gardens roll away. almost as if they fall off the hillside, and a beautiful pool, with sun loungers and accessorised with Moroccan lanterns, is a much needed addition – even in the winter we were warm, so can only imagine how much this pool would be required in the height of summer.
Because the buildings are made of stone – they are cave-like dwellings – they are not pristine. Each room/bungalow does have heating, in the form of wood-burners and electric heaters, and when we’ve stayed, these have been most welcome. We’ve only ever visited out of high season, and so we’ve experienced chilly weather, foggy weather and torrential rain, as well as blue sky and very warm sunshine, for the time of year. But, because the temperatures haven’t hit the highs they reach in the summer, the accommodation can feel cold, and at times, almost damp. However, once the burners are going, the rooms do heat up quickly, but if the initial feel of cold bedding leaves you cold, Los Caracoles might not be the place for you. If it is though, and if you can appreciate the unusual qualities on offer, then like us, we’re sure you will absolutely appreciate this very unique accommodation.
Being so high up in the hills, the views are just spectacular. And, so is the weather. On one visit, thick, impenetrable fog enveloped all of the site and it was so atmospheric, seeing white domes emerging in front of you in the mist. You do feel as if you are up in the clouds when the weather rolls in…
But the beauty of being so high up, is that as soon as the weather clears, you can see the beauty that lies in front of you…
As I said previously, if you want accommodation that is high end boutique and utterly pristine, maybe on this occasion, Los Caracoles is not for you. It is a little bit on the rustic side, perhaps even rough-ish around the edges in places, but it is totally unique. It’s a bit of a thrill to be so high up in the mountains, in very quirky accommodation and take your morning coffee, on a balcony overlooking the spread of Axarquia below you. The restaurant is definitely one of the highlights – and factor in eating here, because Los Caracoles is quite isolated. Although not too far from Frigilana, it’s a bit of a drive across the winding roads, so this restaurant is an excellent option. The menu is very inventive and when we’ve stayed in the past, the chef has been superb. Food is of a very high standard and quite different to your normal Andalucian fare. Fish and meat feature highly on the menu, but there is also a range of vegetarian options. Everything is fresh and cooked to order – we had, on one occasion, John Dory and Skate. The smell of the sea was still on them and they were the most delicious fish I have ever eaten. Breakfasts are substantial – and in the cooler months, just a lovely morning experience, as the wood burner is lit in the dining room, and soft lighting enhances the Moorish-inspired decor.
We are so looking forward to revisiting Los Caracoles on our next trip to Andalucia – and hoping that Blass, who was the largest puppy in the world – is still part of the fixture and fittings.
by Helen | Jan 3, 2023 | Interiors
Although we’ve largely finished the renovations of our stone house, I can always find something else that needs to be done. So, effectively, it always “unfinished”. But not on the scale of these properties, which have been designed to be deliberately “unfinished”.
Peeling wallpaper, floors that have been left untreated and hanging cables give character to these interior design projects, which look as though they’ve been abandoned halfway through decorating.
All photographers credited in Dezeen article : https://www.dezeen.com/2022/10/02/unfinished-interiors-residential-homes-lookbooks/
There’s something very appealing about rough-around-the-edges, industrial rawness – combined with softness, through colour palettes and accessories and lighting. We’re lucky that our home lends itself to a certain unfinished look in places. Parts of the internal walls are still original Istrian stone, as opposed to smooth plaster, and so even when painted white, they still look, well, not quite finished. But they are! OK, we could have them plastered, but the stone is a nod to the heritage and history of the house. Renovated mostly in a contemporary style, we made the deliberate decision to keep parts of the house in its original state, and so we have a bit of an interesting mix going on.
However, not as interesting – or as bold – as some of the houses featured in the Dezeen article, or the apartment we found in the heart of Citta Alta, Bergamo.
Stripped back and very minimalist, this upper floor apartment in a very old townhouse, was absolutely beautiful, in its deliberately unfinished state. Exposed beams, highly polished floorboards and the remains of stunning frescoes in the rooms. I think this is a really bold design choice in a tourist apartment – I’d be so worried about damage to the historical features – but I guess people do show respect. The apartment does have modern amenities and facilities – in particular, a very contemporary kitchen is housed behind a sleek, high gloss white partition wall – and so the stay is very comfortable. I have tried to locate this apartment again online, as we would recommend it, but it would seem it’s no longer taking guests, which is a shame. However, we’re going to tale some inspiration from this apartment, and going forward, we’ll definitely be going for the “unfinished” – but absolutely finished – look in certain places of our home, to create a house which has a very different feel and vibe to the usual Istrian stone house…
by Helen | Dec 30, 2022 | Interiors
Our bedrooms are not overlooked and so we don’t necessarily need curtains at the windows. But sometimes, curtains – or a simple roller blind – can just finish off a window. We have installed white roller blinds in all of the window recesses, because even though we feel OK about having “naked windows”, visitors may well prefer the feeling of privacy. In our bedroom, we’ve always had sheer muslin drapes, because the double window wall, although painted white, is still natural stone and so the curtains soften the wall. We’ve now added floor length duck egg blue velvet blackout curtains, to each window, as even in the winter, early morning sunlight was wakening us up. Not a problem any longer!
Our third bedroom is the one used the least and it currently has the least pretty view, as although very high up, it does overlook the construction of a neighbour’s house. I didn’t want to hang curtains as such in here, as I rarely go into the room, so the hassle of drilling a curtain pole into a tick supporting beam above the window, didn’t seem worth the hassle, as the curtains would hardly ever be closed. But, I still wanted to “finish off” both this window and the room, and obscure the work outside at the times we were in the room. Then, bingo! The solution came to me…
The grey curtain strings (there are four at this window) are usually at the front door in the summer, to keep files out, when it’s open, but during the winter they’re just hung up downstairs, not being used. They’re on a very lightweight rail, so no drilling was needed and they were up in minutes, doing exactly what I’d wanted – transforming the window and the room. Not blocking out the light during the day, but obscuring the view.
These string curtains were purchased from Jysk in Istria. In UK Jysk stores, they’re usually priced at £7.99 per curtain but I’ve just noticed (end of Dec 22) they’re on sale at just £5 per curtain. Bargain!
by Helen | Dec 30, 2022 | Slovenia, Travel
In the heart of Ljubljana city centre, a distinctive stone archway marks the entrance to Antiq Palace, a luxury 16th century palace hotel. Designed originally as the residential palace of noble Slovenian families, it’s now part of the Historic Hotels of Europe group. We’ve been lucky enough to stay here twice. We rarely revisit hotels we’ve stayed in previously. preferring instead to explore new options. But Antiq Palace is one of those places that deserves another visit. It’s a stunningly elegant building, renovated completely in 2011 and just oozes opulence. Even without knowing the history of the former palace and its inhabitants, you can feel the history of the place.
The entrance and reception area is grand and expansive – but it doesn’t feel stuffy or the kind of place where “ordinary” people like us feel out of place. It’s welcoming, with it’s beautiful decor and artwork and attention to detail in terms of how its accessorised. It takes me quite a long time to check in, as I can spend ages just taking in everything around me.
The rooms – or rather, suites – are pretty unbelievable. We’ve visited both times in winter, so maybe prices increase over the summer months, but the rates for both of the “rooms” we occupied were pretty much on a par with what we’d pay elsewhere. Not bargain basement, but absolutely, definitely not ridiculously eye-watering. On the first stay, our “room” – because that is what I thought I had booked – consisted of a huge double bedroom and an exceptionally large en-suite. With many original features including parquet flooring, antique oriental rugs and frescoed ceilings.
Completely over the top for a one night stay for two people, but we had the opportunity, so we went for it! The second visit, the following winter, was probably even more over the top, because we were able to book a suite this time, for approximately the same amount of money – and so we decided to go for this option, and experience the suite. Believe me when I say that there will be many, many apartments which families live in, which are nowhere near as big. But, if the hotel is housed in a renovated palace, then I suppose if the integrity of the building is retained – as it is – then “rooms” will be on the very large size.
Breakfast is a pretty sumptuous affair, too – cold meats, cheeses, fresh bread, pastries, juices, eggs, cereals, coffee – all served in a very elegant dining area. It’s a large space, and tables are positioned in such a way that you never feel you are on top of other diners, so you almost feel as if it’s just you there, having breakfast. There’s also a beautiful internal courtyard, where breakfast can be taken, although in February it was definitely a little too chilly – especially on the first visit when we had a magical covering of thick snow.
We can heartily recommend Antiq Palace Hotel in central Ljubljana (just a cobbled street back from the river) if you fancy a night or two of regal opulence. And, Ljubljana in itself, is a very pretty city, but with a very small historical centre, so it’s a real doable weekend visit kind of place. Winter is gorgeous – it’s does get cold and you can be pretty much guaranteed a sprinkling of snow, which makes it even prettier.
by Helen | Dec 28, 2022 | Lifestyle
Well, that’s almost a Christmas wrap. We’ve spent the last few days hunkered down, with the wood-burners on, lights twinkling, candles flickering and eating all manner of luxurious food at the most inappropriate times of the day. Chocolates for breakfast, with a tot of Baileys is perfectly acceptable at this time of year, I think. We’ve also not seen very much out of our windows because a thick Christmas fog has been clinging on for days. Very atmospheric, but we’re now starting to crave a bit of blue sky.
Like the last two years, we’ve spent our Christmas, at home, in Istria, rather than travelling back to the UK. In 2020, travel restrictions were in place so that was a definite no-go. Last year, although things had eased slightly, we still felt it was too much of a risk travelling across multiple countries, staying in different hotels and then when in the UK, still being largely on the move and then doing it all again on the way back. This year, we decided to stay put because again of rising Covid rates and not really wanting to expose ourselves, and family and friends, to any infection we could have picked up en route. But, added to this in 2022, we’ve had to also assess the situation with strikes in the UK, a country which feels is currently grinding to a halt. Border force staff out on strike on key dates – so whether we drove or flew, we’d inevitably have been affected, and then highways staff on strike, meaning that once we arrived and were on the road, car journeys would have been a nightmare. We salute the strikers and everything they are attempting to achieve and had we travelled would have reminded ourselves constantly of this, but I think with hindsight, given the length of the journey, we’d have been too frazzled to have actually enjoyed any time with family and friends. However, there have been two other considerations and this is where things have become a bit more complicated this particular Christmas.
Our passports expire in August 2023 so we need to renew them pretty quickly. We had considered doing it when back in the UK by just going to the passport office in Liverpool. But – and it’s a big but – if timings didn’t work and we couldn’t make it back for ferries etc, or if the passport office staff went on strike, this would have added another layer of stress. Plus – and it’s another biggie – Croatia is set to join the Schengen zone on Jan 1st. In itself, this is the most brilliant, fantastic news, for us. But not if we’d be middle travel. On the way out, pre Xmas, Croatia would still have been OUTSIDE the Schengen zone, meaning our UK passorts – because of f*ckin’ Brexit – would have to be stamped as we entered Slovenia. This isn’t usually a problem, as we tend to cross the border to go to the supermarket in Slovenia or Italy and and return within the day, or if staying over, within a few days. We definitely never exceed the 90 days which – even though we have Croatian residency – we’re now stymied by, because we are currently UK citizens/passport holders. But, joining Schengen will eradicate all of this as long as we stay within the zone. No more stamping of passports when we travel in Europe. (Until we return to the UK – which probably means in the near future we’ll fly as that will be easier than trying to navigate French borders, with a UK passport and Croatian residency. It’s very complicated, currently, and so with all things considered, we decided that staying put until we were 100% sure of the situation, on all fronts, was the best idea). However, if we were returning AFTER Jan 1st, we’d have to ensure that when we exited Slovenia, we’d still have to have our passports stamped, to tally with the stamp we got on the way out. Because if we didn’t, further down the line, we could have problems if it was seen that we’d out-stayed the 90 days. Which we would have done because we live in Croatia. See how complicated it all has been?
So, our third Christmas has been spent in Istria, but because we do get to see family and friends via Zoom and Facetime, and keep in regular touch with calls, we still feel we get to spend quality festive time with them. And, because of where we are currently, we also get to enjoy a Hygge kind of Christmas. Because when your house is at the top of a very high hill, surrounded by forests and swathed in thick fog, it’s the perfect place to get all Scandi over the festive season.
In the spring and summer, our house is light and bright and airy, as windows are always open, the front door is open and sunlight streams in. But in the winter, it takes on a different personality, as the days are shorter and darkness falls much earlier. I’m an absolute sucker for candles – the more the merrier – and especially of the scented variety, so most rooms will usually have at least a few tealights. Pillar candles are also a bit of a favourite, and for some reason, they are very inexpensive out here, so these are burned most of the time.
Although it’s not freezing by any stretch of the imagination, there is a chill in the air when the wood burners aren’t lit, so the excess of faux furry throws also come into their own over the winter, and there’s nothing more luxurious than covering yourself in one, and snuggling down on the sofa. It’s what Christmas is all about…
We made sure, before Xmas, that we stocked up the fridge and that the wine rack was full, because there was no way we were going out – anywhere – after Christmas Eve. And that’s just what we’ve done. We’ve locked the door, pulled over the big navy velvet winter curtain, drawn down the blinds, lit the candles and over indulged in delicious food. Even though we’re up in the Istrian hills, we’re still very close to all amenities and so can get most of whatever we need from big supermarkets nearby. But, since discovering British Cornershop, we’ve also been able to get hold of those little luxuries which have so alluded us – Cadbury’s chocolate, M&S crumpets, chocolate yule logs, salt and vinegar crisps – and so our Xmas cupboard has had the addition of some much missed treats. As well as a traditional Xmas lunch, we’ve had Baileys for breakfast. Smoked salmon and poached eggs for brunch. Cheese platters – with delicious local wines – in the evening. We’ve made bread too, as we’re definitely not heading out to a supermarket, just yet – but this is the easiest bread recipe, ever. Baked and ready to eat in less than an hour. Everything you want but can’t justify usually – especially, as it seems currently, day after day. Still, we’ll soon return to normal and so we’re making the most of festivities in the fog.
It’s still not over. We’re in those strange days between Christmas and New Year, when you’re never sure what day it is, but the house still feels like Xmas. The decorations are still around. You’re still eating a tube of Pringles (salt & vinegar) in one sitting. Mulled wine at 2pm is a good idea. You’re catching up on all of that TV you’ve missed.
But, as lovely as these days are, that just roll into the next one, we do still need a bit of normality. A day when we’re not eating from the moment we get up and day when we do actually get out from under the throws and off the sofa. And that day is today…
by Helen | Dec 19, 2022 | Italy, Travel
The last couple of years have been a bit crazy, haven’t they? Travel, in the early days, was for very obvious reasons much curtailed and so for a long time we didn’t get to see family and friends in person. Thank goodness that we do live in an age, though, where communication is easy and we’ve spent much time catching up with people via calls and on online. But, this year, things have started to get back to something resembling normality and we spent almost a whole summer with our family who came out to visit us. We’ve also started doing a bit of travelling again ourselves, mainly to Italy because it’s now so close, so again things are starting to feel a little more like they were pre-2020.
Just recently, we were very lucky to be able to drive across to Venice and meet up with Didsbury friends, who had decided to come over for a long weekend. The original plan had been for them to visit us, in Istria, but winter flights just weren’t working out for the small window they had for travel, so Venice was agreed as they could get flights and we could travel across, easily. And, it doesn’t matter how many times we visit Venice, we are always in awe of its staggering beauty – and the fact that it’s somewhere that is now so accessible. If we travel on the motorway, it’s just under two hours, but the more leisurely SS14, across the flat Veneto, is a much less stressful option, although a bit longer.
Through AirBnb, we booked an apartment for two night, in the Dorsoduro area of the city, right on canalside. In the summer this must be a prime apartment, with two large baclonies with seating/sunbathing and dining areas – premium space I’d expect in this part of Venice. For the four of us, it was pretty perfect in early December, too. Large, two big bedrooms and two bathrooms and a spacious living room, with an area for dining and an open plan kitchen. As it rained heavily on one night we were there, we decided to eat in, and it was a great place to spend a night with friends.
Images : Booking.com
Dorsoduro isn’t an area that we know too well, so it was good to discover more of Venice. It’s located very close to the big Marco Polo car park, so easy to get your bearings – although as with anywhere in this magical city, half of the thrill of exploring is to just walk and wander and get lost at times, knowing that at some point, you’ll come across somewhere or something familiar. The weather wasn’t the best – grey, misty and drizzly – but having visited during the Aqua Alta in 2018, we found sight-seeing this time, to be a bit of a breeze…
Our apartment was located very close to Campo Santa Margherita and we found a lovely osteria called Bakarò. Looking nothing really from the outside, once inside, you realise quite how beautiful it is.
Raw and industrial in places, you’re left in doubt this is an old building – and it wears its history on its sleeve. Exposed brickwork, steel beams, old windows which would have been on an upper floor, but because the floors have been removed, the windows seem to float. The lighting is muted and very atmospheric and perfect for a rainy December evening, when all you want to do is cosy up and eat fabulous food. Which is just what we did…
Image credit above : https://www.bakarovenezia.com/
by Helen | Dec 18, 2022 | Lifestyle
The base recipe for this soup is exactly the same as the one I posted last year, but this time I did a couple of things differently. I decided not to whizz the soup this time, keeping the vegetables a bit more chunky – this made the final broth a little less creamy in texture and a bit more robust. I think I must have also added quite a few more fresh chillies as it definitely had more of a kick – perfect for a cold winter’s night.
For a bit more substance, fresh noodles were added at the chicken stage, making the soup a lot more substantial. Using a fork to twirl the noodles around the spoon made it feel more like a main course, than a soup. The addition of a side helping of fresh crusty bread and rock salt butter – utterly decadent – meant we were pretty full after a nice big bowl, with more than enough left over for lunch the next day.
by Helen | Dec 14, 2022 | Lifestyle
As the temperatures have started to plummet – the fires have been lit just recently for the first time this year, so this chilliness, even in December, has caught us on the hop – and so our thoughts are turning very much to food that is winter warming. And just recently, I’ve had a hankering for a good, old-fashioned, hearty chicken casserole. The kind of casserole that just fills the house with the delicious aroma and evvelopes you in warmth and goodness. And this simple from Good Housekeeping, just ticked all of the boxes. No fuss or faff and prepped in no time time, with minimal washing up, too. Always a bonus. It can also be cooked entirely on the hob, in a thick enamel casserole pot – or even a deep pan with a lid – but we finished it off in the over, as per the recipe.
what you’ll need
- 1 tbs of olive oil
- 1 large chicken breast, cut up into chunks – we used free range chicken and the difference in the quality of meat was incredibly noticeable, and now have a second piece left over to make a spicy Thai Chicken Soup
- 1 onion, finely sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 celery sticks, thickly sliced
- 2 large carrots, cut into thick rounds
- 2 leeks, sliced into chunks
- 4 or 5 medium sized potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
- 1 level tbsp plain flour
- 600 ml hot chicken – or veggie – stock
- 2 rosemary sprigs
- Lemon, cut in half and one half squeezed
- salt & pepper
what you’ll need to do
- Heat the olive oil in a large, flameproof casserole. Season the chicken pieces and brown all over for 10 minutes, then remove and set aside. Preheat oven to 200ºC (180ºC fan oven) mark 6.
- Add the onion, garlic, celery, carrots, leeks and potatoes to the pan, and cook, stirring, for 5-10 minutes. Stir in the flour, cook for 2 minutes, then pour in the stock. Season well, then return the browned chicken to the pan. Add the rosemary, squeeze over the juice from the lemon half and pop the other half of the lemon half into the pot. Cover and bring the casserole slowly to the boil, on the hob.
- When boiled, transfer to the oven, and cook in the oven for 25-30 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is piping hot and thickened. Serve immediately with crusty bread or mashed potato, or leave in the casserole pot, with the lid on, to let the flavour increase in intensity.
This recipe really is so, so simple and the results are amazing. The depth of flavours are really intense, and I found this all the more surprising as the only seasoning to speak of is salt and pepper, rosemary and the lemon. I had thought it might be a little bland, and in need of lots of salt and pepper, but it doesn’t. The carrots and celery provide a sweetness which is balanced by the leeks and onions – and if cooked to the timings above, the chicken is moist and succulent. Best thing of all is, we have half a casserole pot still left, which will be heated up for lunch and that extra chicken breast will be used tonight in a spicy Thai Chicken Soup. So, it may be freezing cold outside, but a chicken casserole doesn’t half heat you up and give you that lovely warm feeling, much needed on a winter night.
by Helen | Dec 12, 2022 | Italy, Travel
Being less than 40kms from Venice, Treviso has been overlooked by us in the past.Although we have been before, we always opt for Venice because, you know, it’s – Venice. But on our last Venetian road trip, we put this right and added a final night in Treviso – and boy, are we glad we did, as we discovered the exquisite Maison Matilda. Tucked away, under ancient arches on a cobbled street just off Piazza Duomo, you could walk past this beauty, without even knowing. In fact, we did. But, once inside, the restored townhouse, is just a feast for the eyes. The reception area is discreetly positioned to the rear of the entrance, so you do feel as if you are stepping into a beautiful home, with a gorgeous Farrow and Ball type palette of colours and thick, opulent, velvet drapes. Up the first flight of stairs, and the space opens up into two elegant area – one for dining, the other for relaxing.
Breakfast is a very leisurely affair. We were the only guests in the dining room, other guests having eaten earlier and left, so again, it felt like a very private affair. Breakfast consisted of the freshest ingredients, either made in-house or brought in from very local shops and producers. Freshly baked bread, a selection of croissants and pastries, ham and cheese, fruit salad and the most delicious natural yogurt, omelette, and a very mouth-watering cake, recommended by the owner. Crockery and cutlery were all exquisite, too. Mis-matched, but in a matching kind of way. All delicate and so, so pretty. Breakfast at Maison Matilda, is how I think, all breakfasts should be…
Retaining much of its historical architecture, this is a traditional townhouse with a contemporary interior-design, meaning that modern furnishings contrast with period details. I hats five rooms and one suite, and all are all unique. Our room was on the second floor, up a grand staircase, under a huge crystal chandelier and behind a hidden door (as they all seemed to be), making this boutique hotel even more of a well kept secret.
Our double room was spacious and well equipped with a big bed (with lovely bedding), a mini bar, coffee machine and TV with Netflix. The decor was dark and moody – which could obviously be lightened up with lamps – but it seemed perfect for a cold, rainy December evening. Unlike most hotel rooms, where bathrooms are small and boxy and pretty much all much of a muchness, this bathroom was large. With underfloor heating and free standing bath, plus unusual toiletries and gorgeous towels, this room was a real treat. Nothing quite as relaxing as deep, hot bath and a couple glasses of Prosecco.
All in all, our stay at Maison Matilda was fabulous. We’ve stayed in Treviso a couple of times before, in really great accommodation, but this little boutique hotel was now always be our go-to if there is availability. For the price point (we paid just under €150, which also included the very substantial breakfast), this is a real find, especially as it is in the heart of the city. Parking is available on the street outside – you’ll need to find a blue bay and pay – but the hotel does offer secure parking for €25 per night. We were very lucky that there was availability because it does need to be pre-booked, and although definitely not cheap, it did make everything so much easier. But, street parking, in future, wouldn’t be something which would put us off choosing Maison Matilda in future – and, there is a large public carpark, a short walk away, just outside the city walls.
We paid in full for our whole stay, via Booking.com. This is not a sponsored or paid post – just a blog to remind us of a really fabulous visit and to whole heartedly recommend it to anyone looking for a little bit of luxury, at an affordable price, in the centre of medieval Treviso. And, if you need any other convincing, it’s also highly recommended by Mr & Mrs Smith.
