by Helen | Nov 15, 2013 | Italy, Travel
Of all of the places we visited recently, Venice has to be one of the most memorable. We arrived on a cold, misty afternoon and were prepared for the weather to stay this way as we’d been under thick cloud all the way from Rimini. The lagoon, on either side of the road bridge into Venice was eerie, but still very beautiful, in the mist. Huge cruise liners, like floating cities, suddenly appeared out of the fog, signalling that we had reached Venezia…
Driving to Venice is a bit daunting – even after negotiating much of the length & breadth of Italy! – but through trial and error this is what we found out & hopefully it may be helpful if you too decide to take the car. Obviously, being all canals and water and bridges, you have to leave the car in one of the designated car parks outside the centre. Here’s our advice so that you’ll hopefully get there without attempting to kill one another.
- At the end of the road bridge which connects Venice to the mainland, stay in the right hand lane and follow the signs for Garage San Marco. Stay in the right hand lane as this takes you to the SHORT STAY CAR PARK – relatively cheap, considering you’re in Venice (we paid about 12 euros for 5 hours)
- Turn left out of car park and left again – walk across the bus concourse, up the steps/bridge and you’ll find Santa Lucia train station on your left & the Grand Canal on your right
We walked from this point to St Mark’s Square – it’s a long walk, through winding streets, piazzas, up steps, over bridges and you WILL get lost, but it doesn’t matter as it all leads eventually to the spectacular Piazza San Marco & the stunning Basilica. It is touristy. It is busy. The pigeons will dive bomb. But, it is one of the most breath-taking sights we saw in all of Italy. A fine reward after a very long walk…
It’s been a good few years since my last trip to Venice and we were better equipped this time to get around quickly and easily – which was just as well, as sadly, this visit was a flying one. We hadn’t even intended on stopping in Venice, having booked a hotel in Verona, and intending to spend the day there. However, the lure was just too much and we spend a fabulous afternoon strolling through the streets and alleyways and over bridges, before hopping back on a water taxi to collect the car and head off to Verona.
From Piazza San Marco, it’s very easy to get a shuttle back. (There’s also the options of water taxis, and if you’ve more money than sense, a gondola). The journey from St Mark’s to Santa Lucia (where you need to get off if you’re parked in Garage San Marco), takes about an hour and is probably the best way to see Venice. Carabinieri. Ambulances. Private gondolas. Speedboats. They’re all there – a magical experience!
by Helen | Nov 12, 2013 | Italy, Travel
Rimini – Hotel DuoMo… a pretty spectacular find of a hotel, right in the heart of Rimini. Surrounded by historical buildings and vaulted, arched walkways, sits the very striking Hotel DuoMo – almost brash compared to its neighbours, but somehow it fits. Bold, cherry reds and purples dominate with lots of glass and steel. A very modern reception area sets the tone for the rest of the hotel. Being on a long road-trip, we couldn’t splash out on the best rooms and had to be very mindful about what we were paying for accommodation – but this hotel came up trumps.
A very cool place indeed. The inaugral project from architect & designer, Ron Arad…
What would please Me Most in a hotel is not soMeone else’s idea of chic, elegance of style, but rather coMfort, clarity and ease of access to inforMation, entertainMent and aMbience…
Located in the heart of Rimini centre (about a 20 minute walk from the beach), this was definitely a stand-out hotel. A little bit more expensive than other hotels we stayed in, it was definitely worth it. We booked via Booking.com, so obviously didn’t get the best room in the hotel, but wow! It was amazing. Very futuristic in design but so comfortable – and with a balcony. Although, it was tipping it down when we stayed here, so no vino on the balcony pre-dinner, sadly. Breakfast was fabulous too – meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, cereals, juices, herbal teas etc etc. So, so welcome from the staple diet of cakes we’d been enjoying for breakfast!
So, another kind of accommodation chalked up on our road trip of Italy. We’d have bankrupted ourselves if we’d stayed in places like this one, all the time, but sometimes, it’s a bit of a treat to opt for something a little bit out of the ordinary. Super cool, right in the heart of Rimini and close to the beach. Ticked all of our boxes!
by Helen | Nov 8, 2013 | Italy, Travel
The amazing Matera, in the region of Basilicata, in southern Italy, is going to have a blog post all of its own because it is quite simply, one the most incredible places we visited recently. This blog however, is all about Hotel Basiliani – a real modern jaw dropper, built into the rocks of the Sassi
I’ve been intrigued by Matera for a long time – as a child I was fascinated by these dwellings in the rocks that were abandoned in the 1950s. Then Mel Gibson came along with his film “The Passion of The Christ” – and all I was interested in was ethereal scenery as much of it was filmed in & around Matera. We’d planned on a one day/night stop-over on the way from Tarsia in Calabria to Alberobello, and so wanted somewhere a bit different, but that again wasn’t silly money. The old default search of “boutique hotel in …” brought up Hotel Basiliani – but a quick glance at the gallery of images made me think that this particular boutique hotel would be waaaaay out of our budget. As with a lot of things in Italy, sometimes the perception of something is much more expensive than the reality – and a quick search on booking.com threw up the most incredible apartment. For just over 80 euros. We booked there & then…
The hotel is a series of apartments, built into the rocks. Although it was early October, it was still very warm in Matera, but once inside, the natural air conditioning kicked in. The hotel is described as a “design hotel” and oh my word, it is. Attention to contemporary detail is incredible – once inside the “cave”, we discovered our apartment to be spacious, light, cool and so wonderfully tastefully and under-statedly furnished. Bare whitewashed walls contrasted with chocolate brown floor tiles and well thought out lighting accentuated the space beautifully. After a few days on the road, a deep sumptuous bath was most welcome too! And, as if to put the icing on the cake, a monumental thunder & lightning storm – but no rain – illuminating the re-inhabited rock dwellings…
To say that this hotel blew away is an understatement. It was a visual feast, where absolutely everything was on point. The history of the “caves” was there to see, all around the hotel – with features highlighted, like the floor above. Who knew that nearly a decade later, we’d have our very own glass floor? The minimalist design was just perfect – there were no fripperies or unnecessary bits and pieces or things that were there, for no reason. And, as if the hotel wasn’t jaw-dropping enough, Matera itself was beyond our wildest dreams…
by Helen | Nov 6, 2013 | Italy, Travel
We hit lucky when we were staying in Ortigia, Siciliy – a friend tipped us off about a Buskers’ Festival which was happening in the inland town of Ragusa, and so with very little knowledge about it, other than it was happening, we hit the road. The journey over to Ragusa from Ortigia was stunning – mountainous and winding. And long. We eventually arrived at the town of Ragusa but could see no evidence of anything that resembled a festival. It was deserted – but eventually it clicked. We were in the new part of town and we needed the old part – Ragusa Ibla, and there it was, on the top of the hill…
As is often the case in Italy, things don’t get moving until late afternoon/early evening – and the Buskers’ Festival was no exception. Slowly but surely, the narrow, steep roads started to fill up with entertainers pulling trucks and trolleys full of amazing equipment. Musicians started to pop up on street corners. Magicians performed tricks to growing crowds. Trapeze artists were limbering up. Fire-eaters were starting to warm up. A general feeling of something-about-to-happen was building up…
The old town of Ragusa Ibla, a place we’d never heard of and so had absolutely no intention of visiting, is magical. Cobbled streets wind their way up to the baroque Duomo San Giorgio, which towers over the town, and is recognisable as being featured in the opening credits of Inspector Montalbano. The Catholic Cathedral – Duomo di Ragusa, Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – is as impressive, and because we were there in the evening and into the night, it was magical.
The Buskers’ Festival is annual event, which takes place in October, with entertainment filling the streets of the old town.
Ragusa Ibla is a beautiful town (Ragusa is the newer town) and well worth a visit. If you’re staying south of Catania on the east coast, it’s doable in a day. But to do it justice, or if you’re travelling over from Palermo or the west coast, or down from Taormina, it would be advisable to stay over as it will be quite a long trip to get there. Easily accessible from Ragusa, is the beautiful baroque town of Noto – with one of the most amazing cemeteries we’ve ever seen. Worth a visit in itself..
by Helen | Oct 30, 2013 | Greece, Travel
Anti-Paxos is a tiny island, about 2 miles to the south of Paxos, in the Ionian Sea. It is reached by a speedboat service from Gaios on Paxos – but don’t miss the last one back at 5.30pm as you’ll be stranded. The two or three beach tavernas close when the last boat has left and there is very little way in the way of accommodation. Although we did find an abandoned car, high up in the hills, and Vrika beach is very sandy, so there are two options should you miss the last boat!
Taverna Vrika Beach is amazing. There are two tavernas – as you get off the speedboat and face the beach, our favourite is the one to your left, furthest away from the boat drop off point. It’s family run – the same people who served us seven years ago are still there – and the food they serve is to absolutely die for. If you eat or drink at the taverna, you can use the sunbeds free of charge – unlike a lot of other beaches we’ve encountered (certainly in Italy, where it’s all very regimented), this is all done on a trust basis. I’d imagine even if you didn’t eat, but still used one of their sun loungers, they wouldn’t mind. They’d probably even bring you a drink.* Factor in the location and you have perfection…
Boats leave from Gaois Harbour to Anti Paxos every couple of hours during the summer – they are small boats (no more than 20 passengers). Best to get there early for the first boat and spend all day on Anti-Paxos. It’s about 6 euro return -and you can’t miss the boat to get back as the beach is so small you see it coming in.
It really is the most idyllic tiny island. Even in the height of summer, the beach is not crowded, simply because everyone has to literally arrive by boat – and the boats can only carry so many people. So, you will always get a spot on the beach or a table at one of the tavernas. That is, if you can bear to get out of the sea…
*True story – on our last visit in 2006, we ate at Taverna Vrika & had a gorgeous meal. Upon asking for the bill, I was horrified to realise I had left our money in another bag back in our apartment on Paxos and we had the sum total of about 4 euros in small change. After much panicked & hushed conversation – and imagining that we’d be well washing up – we explained our situation. To our amazement, the waitress said “no problem, pay next time you come” & brought us a huge plate of melon, absolutely free of charge. We were so taken aback and touched by the trust & generosity that we got the first boat back the next morning to pay the bill. We’ve never forgotten that and it just perfectly sums up Anti-Paxos, Paxos & Greece…
And, we’ve never forgortten this guy. Goodness knows how many times he’s done this trick…
by Helen | Oct 30, 2013 | Italy, Travel
Tuscany is an area of Italy I’ve never really discovered -I’ve visited & stayed in Florence and Pisa, but have never before experienced the rolling hills and fields full of sunflowers, which seem to be so associated with this part of Italy. But, in the first week of September, that was put right, with a stay in a small Tuscan town, about 30 km south west of Pisa (where we flew into direct from Manchester), called Santa Luce. Sadly, we’d missed the sunflowers in full bloom, but it was still very, very warm! And even though we’d had a lovely English summer, it was a different kind of warmth – an Italian warmth.
We were staying with friends, so the villa we stayed in was slightly bigger and more grand than if we had been on our own, but a gorgeous way to end a very busy summer and begin a bit of relaxation…
Santa Luce is a small town. You definitely need your own transport as it’s also fairly isolated. However, it is possible to get to Pisa, Florence and Lucca for a day trip as motorway access is good (the FiPiLi – Florence Pisa Livorno road – is the quickest way to get around the region). We visited the Tuscan coast – there are plenty of beaches along the “Toscana Riviera” but Vada, with its white sand fringed with pine woods, is probably the most well known…
A little further afield, but well worth the drive, is the medieval walled hilltop town of San Gimignano, famous for its fourteen towers of varying heights, which dominate the skyline. The town is very much geared up for tourism – there are huge car parks at the foot of the hill and the streets are full of shops selling miniature towers etc – but it is still a must see. We were lucky that we visited on a Tuesday in early September – not a weekend in July or August – as there weren’t crowds and it was easy to get around. And find a parking space, which I guess are at a premium in the height of summer…
by Helen | Oct 30, 2013 | Greece, Travel
update : september 14
Once again, we found ourselves pulled towards the magic of Paxos, after travelling around Sardinia, and so when we had a night’s stop-over in Corfu town, we couldn’t resist Hotel Siorra Vittoria again. Sometimes, when you don’t have long to spend somewhere, the familiar is a great option – and we found this to be true, this time around. A 10 minute taxi from Kerkyra Airport and we were checking in – last year we stayed in the annexe, this time we were on the second floor, and the room was just as beautiful…
Still can’t over-emphasise the luxury of a bath when travelling – a huge plus point with Siorra Vittoria. As well as the amazing breakfasts which you can take in the garden. This hotel really is something quite special & one that I think we may be visiting a few more times as we continue to explore Western Greece…
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Having a night in Corfu town (Sept 2013) before catching an early flight to Rome, I wanted to find somewhere that had a touch of luxury but didn’t break the bank. Somewhere that was very central to the old town. And somewhere that had a bath, not just a shower. Possibly a bit of a tall order, but if these are your requirements too, you might like where I found…
First of all though, Corfu Town. My last visit to Corfu was seven years ago, enroute again to Paxos. I’d done a quick internet search & found the Hotel Atlantis, conveniently located to the port. But short on any kind of luxury. We didn’t investigate Corfu town much further than the port and hired a car and drove north to Kassiopi. A great decision at the time as it’s a beautiful harbour town & we wouldn’t have known about this had we liked Hotel Atlantis…
This time, though we didn’t have the time to get anywhere else & so it was decided Corfu Town had to be investigated. And how glad am I that we did – it’s stunningly beautiful…
But what made the trip memorable, was the Hotel Siorra Vittoria, located just behind the beautiful City Hall Square, on St Padova Street. The website describes it as an “aristocratic mansion” – and that’s just what it is! Beautifully decorated in heritage colours, full of antique furniture (although certainly not stuffy), it’s like taking a step back in time. Our room (large bedroom & large bathroom – with bath!), was one of two, in a garden annexe right next to the main hotel. (The room was called Nicola, if you’re interested). Being a little bit away from the hotel, and in a little walled garden, there was a feeling of complete privacy, and it didn’t actually feel like staying in a hotel. Perfect. The room was absolutely beautiful with attention to detail clearly being very high on the agenda. And the bathroom – yes, a bath! Utterly gorgeous – and if you fancy a touch of luxury for a short stay, then I can’t recommend Hotel Siorra Vittoria highly enough. We took a taxi from the port to Hotel Siorra Vittoria as we weren’t sure how far away it was – if you have a lot of luggage, get a taxi (about 10 euros). However, if you’re not laden down, the walk away from the port towards Corfu Old Town is well worth it – about 30 minutes.
by Helen | Oct 24, 2013 | Italy, Travel
The early morning market in Ortigia, Siracusa (Siciliy), is a sight to behold. Whilst we do have some excellent fresh produce markets here in the UK, this Sicilian one blew us away…
Every kind of fresh vegetable and fruit seemed to be available, along with fish caught that morning, cheeses, breads, olives, oils. The sheer number of stalls was incredible – and the banter between stallholders, vying for buyers’ attention was a piece of theatre in itself. The market is raw and gritty and if you have a delicate constitution, certain areas should definitely be avoided! The fish section, for example – especially when the traders are competitively chopping, slicing, skinning and discarding the less savoury parts of the fish from the parts which will bring the most money.
The hustle and bustle is palpable. There’s no polite queuing here – if you see what you want, you have to push forward or someone else will have what you have your eyes on. Hands thrust forward, people jostle, and shout over you. Again, if you prefer the more sedate pace in Waitrose, Ortigia Market may be a bit of a shock. Underfoot, you’re likely to stand in produce which has fallen off stands, or the discarded parts of vegetables. It is sluiced down, but this all just adds to the feeling of chaos.
However, look closer, and you’ll see it’s not chaos at all. It’s carefully manged and orchestrated piece of open air theatre. All of the stall holders know their parts. The lead actors – the fish guys, it would seem – play to the crowd magnificently. Cameras and phones are held aloft, snapping away and recording this free entertainment, presumably to later be posted online. Making stars out of the performers.
The market, like all Italian markets, is not just about the food – but this is the star of the show. We saw people leaving with mattresses and bedding from the household section. Electrical goods are available, as well as agricultural. Religious artefacts can also be purchased. Clothes, ornaments, shoes, household products, flowers, plants, pet products. Everything you could need, in one vibrant corner of Ortigia.
If you ever visit this authentic, totally Sicilian city, our advice is, take in the market. If you need any more convincing, here’s what Think Sicily has to say…
Turning left at the entrance to the island will take you immediately to the colourful daily morning street market, which sells a fantastic array of fruit, vegetables, fish and meat. At the end of the market is a must-see for food lovers: a delicatessen of rare quality, called “I Sapori dei Gusti Smarriti” (literally the flavours of lost tastes). Here you can find cheeses, hams and cured meats of the very best quality, many of which, especially those produced in Sicily, you will find nowhere else. There is also an excellent assortment of wines, condiments, sun-dried tomatoes and other Sicilian delicacies made by the shop’s owners in their “laboratory”.
