by Helen | Oct 15, 2024 | Spain, Travel
It’s over ten years since we lasted visited Ronda, and that was a flying visit, as we were en route to Seville for Semana Santa. But it imprinted such a memory that we always said we’d return for a longer visit, and in August we did just that. The summer of 2024 has been one of getting to know Andalucia, which we hope, very soon, we will call our new permanent home. We’d driven around Ronda a few times, in order to get to places we were staying, but when we pitched up in a rented apartment in Algodonales for a month, this seemed the perfect opportunity to revisit the city we had very fond memories of. Especially it was only just over half an hour away.
We booked two nights in Hotel Catalonia Ronda, part of the Catalonia Hotel group, which we found out afterwards. The location could not have been better – almost directly opposite the famous bullring, on the corner of Carrera Espinel, which is a beautiful boulevard, packed full of fabulous bars, restaurants and shops, and less than two minutes walk from the Puento Nuevo and Ronda gorge. The hotel also has private parking (right next to the bullring) – always a bonus in a historical city centre – but the biggest bonus is that hotel will take they keys and park for it for you. The reason this is great, is that often these car parks can be quite a squeeze, and with a roofbox and a large(ish) car, we’d rather leave the parking to someone familiar with the layout. Anyway, great to have car safely stowed away for two days.
Our room was large and more than adequate for a two night stay. Not exceptional, but this wasn’t an issue, as the view over the Ronda rooftops was beautiful – and the facilities in the hotel were pretty exceptional. Most notably being the wrap around roof terrace, with a view directly into the bullring, as well across to the gorge and the town, campo and mountains beyond, and the pool on a level above this terrace.
We arrived in Ronda over a very, very hot and stifling weekend, so exploring in the intense heat of the day was pretty much ruled out. However, we did feel, that with a very comfy roof terrace, and umbrellas to keep us in the shade, we could sit back and explore with our eyes, and indulge in a couple of G&Ts. Which we did. Although we kept it to a couple, as we’d have quickly run out of money otherwise. Pricey, to say the least…
Sunday was as hot as Saturday, so whilst we did get out and about, we punctuated it with a stop at the Parador restaurant and a fabulous spread of tapas, overlooking the gorge. It definitely didn’t seem like ten years since our last visit, as pretty much everything was unchanged. Which I loved as it showed that they city hasn’t needed to introduce new show-stoppers to encourage tourists – it just seems to tick along very nicely with what’s always been there and its natural crowd pullers. The terrace of the Parador hotel gives a great view of the Puente Nuevo and the stomach churning drop down into the gorge, because it is slightly raised – meaning that you can good photos, without fighting through selfie sticks. (I hadn’t realised these were still a thing, but apparently they seem to be).
We had expected our meal to be exorbitant, but were just glad of the shade and so decided that whatever it cost, at least we’d have had a view. But, we were very pleasantly surprised – as with many places in Spain, rip-off culture just doesn’t exist – and we had a fabulous meal, costing round about the same as the bar bill on the hotel roof terrace.
After a much needed siesta, we ventured out again, to explore, although not getting much further than the area around the bullring and the Puente Nuevo. This tiny part of Ronda – which is much, much bigger than we realised – is so pretty and with limited time, it’s probably where you’d want to focus your sight-seeing. Early evening, for obvious reasons in mid-August, is also a much more pleasant time to be out and about. If you have a head for heights, walk past the bullring, and through a blossom lined avenue, and you’ll get to see the gorge from the other side, as well as the cave house settlements, which now look largely abandoned, far below. It’s a breathtaking spot to catch the sunset, too.
In Spain, as in Italy, food plays a huge part in our travels, and Ronda was no exception. As well as the Parador, we read about a restaurant, just around the corner from our hotel on Carerra Espinel, called Toro Tapas, which had excellent online reviews. It was super busy when we arrived and we were lucky to be able to get an outdoor table – although the restaurants indoors, is air-conditioned and looked to have a fabulous roof terrace. The thing about the food here, was that it just didn’t look the best, and so I think my photos don’t really tell the full story. It was excellent – and although most tapas dishes, here in Andalucia, seem to be served with a portion of fries, the actual tapa dish is usually always very tasty.
We’re definitely getting our quota of tapas now that we are finally in Spain, so for our second night, we decided to investigate Restaurant Jerez, located opposite the Bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Ronda, to give it its full name. The restaurant’s website says that it “…combines authentic Rondenian traditions with generations of experience in high quality service in an ideal location to savor the gastronomy of our land…Our menu fuses traditional Andalusian cusine with modern innovation…” so we were keen to investigate, and we enjoyed another delicious meal of croquettes, stuffed mushrooms, cheeses, filled pasta and pistachio sauce and sea bass on a bed of vegetables, followed by a shared dessert, to round off our Ronda food journey.
The house we are in the process of buying is located in the white town of Jimena de la Frontera, only 65kms from Ronda, so we are very excited that weekend trips away like this, will become the norm, to this beautiful city and that we’ll be able to get to know it a whole lot better. Our two days this summer was just lovely, and enough to once again make us realise just how lucky we are going be, when we call this part of Spain, home…
by Helen | Sep 24, 2024 | Spain
Our roadtrip around Andalucia has introduced us to some incredible places, and definitely places we probably wouldn’t have otherwise discovered, if we hadn’t been “in between homes”. One such place which will stay in our memories for a very long time, is a hotel in an 11th century castle, in Castellar de la Frontera. We wanted to have a night somewhere remote, and away from it all, with a restaurant so the decision making about dinner was out of our hands, and we could just relax. And this is exactly what we found. Although not so remote, that we couldn’t see the imposing Rock of Gibraltar in the distance…
Hotel Tugasa Castillo de Castellar has a real privileged hillside setting in a Medieval walled enclosure, set around an ancient fortress in the Andalusian countryside. It really is an authentic Spanish castle, surrounded by the wonderful scenery of the Alcornocales Nature Park, and sitting high over a well-preserved village of characteristic, whitewashed houses, giving it a peaceful atmosphere in which you can really relax. The small car park is situated under the castle, and it’s necessary to do the last 300 metres or so on foot. (Although I think if you are laden with luggage, the hotel will assist). It’s worth noting that the access road is a cobbled one, which is quite steep and winding, and so if mobility is an issue it might be worth phoning ahead to see what assistance is available. However, there are plenty of stopping points, where you can catch your breath – and the views are stupendous!
This is not a Disney-fied hotel, made to look medieval – it is the real deal. Restored very sympathetically, original features are in abundance. The wooden furniture feels authentic – in other settings, I’d probably think it was a bit old fashioned and uncomfortable looking, but in this castle setting, it was perfect. Thick, thick stone walls, huge wooden doors, tiny windows (obviously with defence being the first thing in mind, when the castle was constructed) and beautiful original tiled and mosaiced floors were all present. The phrase “stepping back into history” is a bit overused, but this really, really was stepping back into the past.
Somehow, and we’re not sure how, we managed to be allocated the “Turret Room”, and this was a real treat. I thought we had booked a double room, which it was – but a whole lot more too. Being the turret room, it was located right at the top of the castle, so again, anyone with real mobility issues, just be aware if you ever find yourself here. There is a lift, but it only goes to the first floor, so the rest of the way is winding corridors and stairs – but it’s worth effort when you get there. The actual bedroom itself, was huge, with a wrought iron four poster bed and a large bathroom. But leading off from the bedroom, was another corridor, and further stairs which opened out into a large room area, and then up further to another large bedroom and second bathroom. And, it didn’t end there. Up another set of stairs and you are on your own roof terrace, right at the top of the turret, with the most astonishing views across to the mountains and down to the Bay of Cadiz, and overlooking the beautiful Guadarranque reservoir.
Dinner is served in the hotel restaurant, although it’s not served actually IN the hotel. One of the whitewashed houses in the very, very pretty village which lies at just outside the entrance to the castle, is the restaurant. This enables you to really experience the village, rather than staying in the castle – as spectacular as that would be, it was lovely to explore and to realise that lots of the beautiful houses are actually accommodation, too. However, this village has been renovated and restored so well, that it really feels like an authentic Andalucian pueblo blanco. There really isn’t a hint of over-tourism or over commercialisation. It really reminded me of the albergo diffuso concept in Italy – a form of hotel where guest rooms are spread out in various buildings within a small town or community, generally of historical significance. The concept was launched in Italy in the early 1980s as a means of reviving small, historic Italian villages and town centres off the usual tourist track. The term is translated into English as “dispersed hotel”, “scattered hotel” or “virtual hotel”. It has to conform to the following conditions, which is how this castle concept seems to operate –
- Run directly by an individual owner and providing normal hotel services;
- Rooms distributed in existing converted buildings in historic centres;
- Central reception area with food available;
- Part of a genuine community so that guests can be part of local life.
Dinner was amazing – and sadly, so good that I failed to take many photos as we were too busy enjoying the meal. However, my fish main course, with black rice and asparagus was pretty stand out and I managed to capture this before devouring it…
The village itself is absolutely picture-perfect and I am so glad, on our short stay, we were forced to leave the hotel, because might otherwise not have seen it. It’s pretty much everything you’d expect of an Andalucian village – white houses, tiled roofs, tumbling plants, colourful flowers, cobbled streets. Just gorgeous.
We had a one night stay at the castle, and it probably was just the right length of stay. Unless you are going to head out and hike in the surrounding countryside, an evening of relaxing on your terrace and then going out for dinner, with a wander around the village, is probably all you’ll need to do, especially if you just want a night of peace, quiet and calm. Leaving the hotel, we took the opportunity to savour the views on the way back down and to appreciate the remote location. A very special place, which we are delighted to have found.
by Helen | Sep 20, 2024 | Spain, Travel
Situated in the southern Andalucian town of Medina Sidonia, Ático 73, Victoria, is advertised as an adults-only hotel. Although we’re not averse to staying in places which are child friendly, it’s nice sometimes to know that peace and quiet are probably most definitely going to be the order of the day. Advertised as a hotel, it’s more of an elegant, renovated, traditional-style Andalucian townhouse, with an impressively large entrance room, an internal courtyard and several large rooms, suites and an apartment, all on the first and upper floors. Each space is said to have its own unique touch and although there are communal areas, everywhere feels very private and we certainly felt that we experienced complete relaxation.
It is clear that this hotel aims to provide an escape from the daily hustle and bustle of life. Although it’s located on a quiet street in the pueblo blanco of Medina Sidonia, it’s once you step through the doors, that you feel a sense of calm washing over you. There is no reception and check-in is done online, so all you need are the codes to enter and access your room. Sometimes, it is good to be greeted by someone, but sometimes it’s also good to feel that you are entering your own home, rather than a hotel. And that is exactly what this felt like.
Polished microcement, concrete, rattan furnishings, jute rugs, rough textured walls, soft lighting, natural tones,pristine white walls, wooden floors, marble columns, and stone archways – all executed perfectly. My favourite kinds of decor and accessorising.
The hotel has a lovely rooftop to relish the views, across the rooftops of the pueblo blanco and down across to the city of Cadiz and the beautiful coastline – a fabulous place to also take in the very dramatic sunsets.
We stayed in a small apartment – larger than a studio, and perfect for the two nights we’d booked. With a small, well appointed kitchen area, which seemed very new and well equipped, to a lounge/sleeping area, with a sofa and a very comfortable bed and quite a large separate bathroom, with a good sized walk-in shower.
The townhouse is located close to Plaza de Espana, so it’s only a short walk to a decent amount of bars and restaurants. Median Sidonia has a lovely feel to it – even in the height of the summer, it still felt a little bit “undiscovered”, as it wasn’t thronged with tourists. In fact, we liked it so much, we decided to have an extended stay for here for a month, in a different, larger apartment, while we wait for the legal process to trundle along and the purchase of our town house to complete. It’s been a great few weeks, getting to know this pretty town, which is perfectly located – half an hour to the beaches around Cadiz and an hour to the main resorts on the Costa del Sol. So glad that we’ve been investigating places we might otherwise not have known about, such as Medina, and spend time as tourists and locals.
by Helen | Sep 17, 2024 | Spain, Travel
When we booked a four night stay recently in Tarifa, La Guardia apartments seemed a pretty perfect choice. Self-catering, right in the centre of the old town, in the middle of all of the action, contemporary and stylish judging by the photographs, and although not the cheapest option, did seem like a pretty good deal for the facilities on offer. So, we arrived, on a hot, hot Sunday, full of expectation for a relaxing stay in our concrete effect apartment…
(Photographs : Booking.com)
The apartments are let by what seems to be an anonymous management company, and this really only came to light after we had checked in. Communications prior to check-in had not led me believe we’d be dealing with a faceless company, but I did find one of their emails quite surprising, when I was advised, that under no circumstances, could we check-in before 5pm. Seemed a bit stern and inflexible, but we just went along with it. Self-check-in was OK – easy enough and sometimes we do like not to have to do small talk, but things started to go a little awry when we just could not get the air-con to operate. The wall mounted unit is clearly visible in the bottom left photo, above, and as we’d received no indication that anything was wrong with it, we continued to try and get it to turn on, as it was very, very warm in the apartment. Which, by the way, on first impressions was a lovely as the photos above suggested…
After about ten minutes, it was apparent that we were either doing something wrong or the aircon was just not going to play ball, and so I messaged “Paloma”, who had sent me lots of messages, including frequent reminders of the €80 cleaning fee. I’ll come back to this one later…
Whilst waiting for a reply, we decided to have a glass of wine. Not a huge issue, but there was only one wine glass – another message was sent to Paloma, asking if she could arrange for another glass. When you book an apartment for two people, for four nights, a second wine glass seems quite an obvious thing to expect, I think. Anyway, Paloma arrived and also brought a box of six new wine glasses. With seven glasses, we were now well set up and thanked her for bringing them to us. So, onto the aircon, as we asked her to show us what we might be doing wrong.
Oh, we weren’t doing anything wrong. “It is broken…” Sorry, Paloma, what was that you just said? In an apartment, where the outside temperature was in the high thirties, there is no aircon? And, in the flurry of emails and WhatsApps you had sent me, you didn’t think to mention this? Or arrange for us to be allocated an apartment where the aircon was working? According to Paloma, she couldn’t have alerted us to the broken aircon system, because it had just happened and although they had tried, they could not get an engineer to come out and fix it, because the necessary parts could not be located…
So, this made us scratch our heads. If it had just happened, how had they had already contacted an engineer? Who had alerted them to the fact that the aircon wasn’t working, as don’t forget, we couldn’t check-in in a minute before 5pm? How did said engineer know which parts were needed if no-one had been out to see it? And why weren’t we alerted to the fact it wasn’t working? Oh, and don’t let’s now forget it’s now about 5.30pm on a HOT Sunday afternoon in Tarifa, when all self-respecting aircon engineers will probably be at the beach, with family or having a beer. Come on, Paloma, you’re going to have to try a little harder than this!
And, to her credit, she did. She remembered that under the sink, in the bathroom area, was a mobile aircon unit and pulled it out for us, and stuck the plastic pipe into the beautiful concrete effect sink, so that the condensation could drip away. Hmmm…what about when we used the sink? You know, to wash our hands or brush our teeth? Oh, that’s not a problem, said Paloma, you can also wedge the white pipe out through the window. And yes, this had obviously been done before, by many guests, as the wedge shape of the open window, was very clear in the plastic pipe.
Aside from the ridiculous set up, we did question why a mobile air con unit, which had clearly been used A LOT, was ready and waiting for us – Paloma was not sure why. We went a bit back and forth with the whole situation, and as this mobile unit was very noisy and wasn’t reducing the temperature any, I asked that we be moved to another apartment, given that it was fairly uncomfortable and we didn’t feel that this particular one was fit for purpose. She didn’t think any other apartments were available but would go off and check with management. From our window we could see into another apartment, which by almost 7pm on a Sunday evening, still had no guests in it, and to be doubly sure, I checked on booking.com. And there we had it – an apartment which was available. So, we felt all would be resolved quickly and we’d be moved.
Not quite so, though. Paloma informed me by Whats App, that they had no availability. All apartments were booked. NO, they’re not, I told her. I’m looking into an empty apartment (although I did understand that guests could be checking into it later), but I’m also looking at at least one, available apartment, online. Can we not just move there and providing the air con is working, we’ll just then get on with our break? Leave it with me, she said, I need to check with management. More hanging around, but she finally came back and said yes, they had found an available alternative after all, but not until tomorrow, and could I just please cancel my original booking and re-book the new one? Oh, and I know you have booked for four nights, but when you move to the new apartment we can only accommodate you for two nights, not three, so you’ll have find somewhere else for the Thursday night. OK, not the best scenario as I had booked and paid for four nights – in total €520.52, so by my calculations €130.05 per night – meaning I would expect a refund of €130.05 for the fourth night. I think by this point Paloma, was keen to get on with her evening and not have to deal with me any more, so she conceded that the original apartment, was, as I said, “not fit for purpose” and that it should not have been let out, and we should have been informed and that other arrangements should have been in place. Unfortunately, this was all verbal – but at least she had agreed, if only to get rid of me. We would be able to move at 11am the next morning – *no sooner*! – and so we went out for the evening, and cooled down. Only to return and have a pretty sleepless night, due to the heat and the noise of the mobile air con unit.
Next morning we were up bright and early, eager to leave but also to make sure that the apartment was left in PRISTINE condition, as we did not want to fall foul of this piece of information, which we received when we booked, and which was reiterated in subsequent messages :
A damage deposit of EUR 80 is required on arrival. This will be collected by credit card. You should be reimbursed within 7 days of check-out. Your deposit will be refunded in full via credit card, subject to an inspection of the property.
Moving to the new apartment was smooth and it was a pretty cool apartment, both in terms of decor and temperature. The air con was working! Similar in style, but more natural in terms of styling and colour and with a comfortable dining table and chairs, much better suited to a self catering apartment. And, to add our increasing feeling of satisfaction, an email from booking.com popped into my inbox, with the subject “Refund”. Paloma had come good…
But the refund was for €51.66, significantly less than my calculation of one night, which I worked out to be €130.05! And, because of the issues we’d had the previous evening, and my growing feeling that this management company was not entirely guest focused, there was NO way I was going to let this go. So, back onto Paloma. To say she wasn’t overly delighted to hear from me, is something of an understatement. She was taking no responsibility whatsoever, for any of this, especially the refund – which I understood completely, as she was not management (as she kept reminding me) and so asked to speak to someone from management. Absolutely not. She simply could not do this. Guests are not allowed to speak to management, and in any event, the refund that had been issued, was it. Nothing more would be issued, even though she could not explain why the company were effectively keeping €78.39. Things, for me, took a bit of a turn, when out of curiosity I checked booking.com again, and there, right in front of me, was the apartment we had vacated not an hour earlier, back online for anyone to book and about €30 more than we had paid for the equivalent of one night. I was FURIOUS! Not only were they trying to retain some of my money, but if rented, the company would actually profit from letting out an apartment which I was pretty sure would still be unfit for purpose, with defective aircon.
So, to cut a long story short, I spent most of the rest of the early afternoon onto booking.com, explaining the whole situation. Multiple times on hold. Multiple times retelling the same experience. Eventually, I was advised that they would contact the company and could I stay on hold? Fifty minutes later and I was reconnected. They had been unable to speak to anyone from management – now, there was a surprise – but Paloma had admitted that things were not acceptable and that the additional refund could be made and should be in my account within seven days, but that I should call back tomorrow just to confirm that all was being processed. Hold on, but I thought Paloma couldn’t make decisions like this…
Next morning, back onto booking.com and even though they confirmed that they had all notes on my case file, I have to explain the whole thing again. And they have to call Paloma again, to confirm that refund will be generated. And I have to hold again – only for forty minutes this time though. And at the end of the call, could I please call booking.com again tomorrow, to confirm that all is being processed…
Luckily, and I have no idea who made this happen, just before I was about to call booking.com, I received a notification from my bank. Yep, the sum of €78.39 had just been paid. The shortfall! Hurrah.
So, we had one afternoon left in La Guarida apartment in Tarifa, rather than the four days of relaxation we had originally expected. Looking back, I think it could all been have dealt with so much better. Rather than bringing a box of six wine glasses, when the requested one would have sufficed, perhaps a bit more thought could have gone into addressing the issue of defective aircon, which made the stay on night one, very, very uncomfortable. The dishonesty though, both in terms of not being truthful about the problem and then the pathetic attempt to not return the full refund initially, for one night, is what infuriated me the most. Lesson learned though – book somewhere with a largely faceless company, and you’ll get a much poorer service. They think they will have nothing to lose, and probably on most occasions, they won’t as I think most people, on holiday, might give up and think they’ll deal with it on their return, and then don’t, because it’s happened. It’s over. But I won’t give up, when I know that something is fundamentally wrong and I am right. And that’s why I’d urge anyone looking to book a stay in Tarifa, don’t be fooled by the nice photographs and write-ups of this place. It’s not about guest experience – it’s about all fur coat and no knickers. Scratch the surface and the contemporary interiors aren’t all that. The decor isn’t as high end, as the photos might suggest. It’s all done to look high end. A bit like the €80 cleaning fee they blocked on my card (not taken though, as there was NO way we were going to give them the opportunity), it’s all about the money.
Avoid La Guarida. They don’t appear to like guests. Especially those with a legitimate complaint.
And, btw, we did find a FAB place to stay on the Thursday. A room in a turret in a medieval castle, high up in the mountains, no less. With air con!
by Helen | Sep 16, 2024 | Interiors
Sometimes, you find somewhere to stay, that is just so exceptionally beautiful, you spend your whole stay, drinking in the interiors, the exterior, the accessories and accessorisation, and just well, the whole thing. On our roadtrip across Spain, we’ve been so lucky to stay in some pretty special places, but one which really stands out in the memory, is a renovated townhouse in Archidona, in Andalucia.
Archidona is a pretty pueblo blanco, with its centre crammed with typical Andalucian houses – white exterior, huge front doors, shuttered windows and small balconies. Hostal Aljibe is, from the outside, one such typical townhouse. However, once you enter the front doors, you know this place is something very, very special. Bought by the Belgian owners a few years ago, it was a complete wreck. We love a renovation project, but I don’t know how their nerves coped with this one! We saw photos of the before and during, and we wouldn’t even have considered this as a project, as it looked so beyond saving. Thankfully, Frank and Sabrina didn’t think the same way, and although, as they told us, the renovation process was pretty horrendous and arduous and fraught with never ending delays and bureaucracy, they persevered and now have a boutique townhouse hotel which is out of this world.
I could wax lyrical about this gorgeous townhouse for a long time, but I think the photographs we took will do it a whole lot more justice…
Our room was a suite on the first floor, with a large seating/living room area, with a small sofa, desk and chair and fridge and the most beautiful tiled floor. This space opened up into the bedroom – a very large room, with floor to ceiling shuttered windows looking down into the street below – and a well designed walk in shower and separate toilet. (The toilet in our room didn’t have a door, but because of its position – tucked away in a corner – this wasn’t an issue for us). The suite had a feeling of real spaciousness, because of the windows and the height of the ceilings, as well as the calming, neutral tones and textures used throughout. The attention to detail in terms of decor, styling and accessorising is off the scale. Everything has been thoughtfully and carefully considered, curated and positioned. No details are left to chance and absolutely no corners are cut.
The ground floor is separated into a reception area, a small lounge and a large open plan kitchen area (where breakfasts are prepared) and a communal dining area, which leads out onto the most exquisite terrace and up to the wow factor pool area.
I particularly liked all of the light and lampshades, throughout the small hotel. All unique and individual macrame shades. And I liked then even more when the owner told me she just could not source what she was envisioning for her hotel – and so via online tutorials, learned how to make these herself! They are really amazing feats of creativity – and absolute labours of love, as the large ones can takes up to three weeks to make! The effect of them, in the spaces where the are housed, is simply beautiful…
This hotel is flawless. From the thick sage green pool towels, rolled up and tied with ribbon in wicker baskets, for guests to use, to the simple but stylish cutlery at breakfast. Which is exactly as you’d imagine – faultless. Deliciously home made and in abundance, served to a background of Spanish classical music. Special mention given to the bed and the linen – utterly exquisite. And even more so, when we asked about it and were told it was from Zara Home. Guess what our visitors are going to sleeping on…
After we left, we obviously left a review for Hostal Aljibe. We do this for all places we stay at as we think a review provides information for other people who may be interested in the property, and also a bit of feedback for owners. Most people never bother to reply, and we never expect them to, as they are busy and we’ve provided the feedback. However, this reply from Frank and Sabrina really sums up them and their whole philosophy. A gem of a find in Archidona, which we will return to…
Dear Helen,
Where do we even begin to thank you for such an exquisite and detailed review of Hostal Aljibe? We are beyond thrilled to hear that you found our boutique hotel to be the most perfect place you’ve stayed in. It brings us immense joy to know that you appreciated the renovation and restoration efforts we put into every corner of our hotel. Your kind words about the natural tones, handcrafted chandeliers, and attention to detail mean the world to us.
We are delighted that you enjoyed our breakfast. We always strive to provide a memorable culinary experience for our guests, and it’s wonderful to hear that we succeeded. The courtyard and pool area are indeed some of our favorite spots, and we’re glad you found them as beautiful and tranquil as we do.
Frank and I are truly touched by your kind words. We strive to make every guest feel special and cared for, and it’s heartwarming to know that our efforts resonated with you. Your recognition of the peacefulness, tranquility, and calm we aim to create is deeply appreciated.
We are so happy that your visit to Archidona and your stay with us left such a positive impression. Knowing that you plan to return is the highest compliment we could receive. We look forward to welcoming you back for another perfect stay.
Warm regards,
Frank & Sabrina, Hostal Aljibe
by Helen | Sep 10, 2024 | Spain, Travel
The last time we visited Tarifa, was back in 2014 and it was a flying visit. We were travelling back from Seville to Nerja and stopped off for an afternoon, vowing to return, because we loved the tiny amount of the town and the beach, that we saw. Fast forward to 2024, and this time we stayed for four nights. We’ve been on a bit of an Andalucian roadtrip, as we are currently a bit nomadic – we’ve sold our home in Istria and are in the process of buying a Spanish townhouse and so are making the most of being currently homeless and discovering Andalucia. An apartment was booked in the old town, and it looked fab – all concrete and natural palettes and tones and wood, but when we discovered the broken aircon, everything unravelled slightly and a lot of the first couple of days were spent wrangling with the company we’d booked through and eventually with Booking.com. It’s a whole other tale, but we persisted and were finally moved and received a refund. Luckily, our accommodation woes didn’t affect our enjoyment of being in Tarifa, and we had the most fabulous short break, in the most southerly town in the Cádiz province.
Before checking in, we had a couple of hours to kill, so hit the coast road, intending to get to the famous beach of Playa de Bolonia, and the ruins of the Roman town of Baelo Claudia, considered to be the most complete Roman town ruins yet uncovered in Spain. On this occasion, we got no further than the dunes of Valdevaqueros, which were amazing! The road along the dunes was also a bit of an experience, as the strong, hot winds had blown sand across it, so it was a bit like driving on the beach itself. And the wind. Oh, the wind! It was so blustery, but also felt like a hairdryer – so much so, that I declined the running up the sand dunes task…
Tarifa feels such an easy town. There’s a real laid back vibe, with it’s surfer dudes, board shops, independent shops and boutique hotels. Plus it’s very, very pretty especially inside the old town walls. Because we weren’t really on holiday as such, we didn’t spend all of our time out and about. We still had to do client work and, due to malfunctioning aircon in the apartment (another story), quite a lot of our time was spent dealing with the agency who rented it and booking.com. All was sorted, kind of, in the end, but it did curtail our exploration of Tarifa. However, we weren’t too concerned as we did get out and about and now that we are moving towards being settled in Andalucia, we figured we could always come again.
So, our discovery of this beautiful town, was largely done in the evenings and at night, when we headed out to eat. Despite the issues we had with the apartment, its location was fantastic, right in the heart of the old town, about two minutes from the hustle and bustle of gorgeous restaurants, bars and independent shops. Tarifa has become increasingly popular with tourists, but it has managed to retain much of its charm and authenticity, and this is so evident in the old town.
If the history of places interests you, then Tarifa is well worth a visit. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, with evidence of Neolithic, Phoenician, and Roman settlements. The Roman town of Baelo Claudia, located nearby, was a significant port city in ancient times. In the 8th century, Tarifa was one of the first places in Spain to be conquered by the Moors, and it remained under Islamic rule for several centuries, the town getting its name from the Moorish commander Tarif ibn Malik, who led a raid on the Iberian Peninsula in 710 AD. It was then reconquered by Christian forces in 1292 during the Reconquista, the campaign to reclaim Spain from Muslim rule. Its strategic location made it an important military and trading hub. Historically, these are probably the key attractions to visit :
- Castle of Guzmán el Bueno: This fortress, built in 960 AD during the Moorish period, was later expanded by the Christians. It’s named after Alonso Pérez de Guzmán, a local hero who defended the town from Moorish invaders in 1294.
- Puerta de Jerez: This is the only remaining gate of the old medieval walls that once surrounded the town, offering a glimpse into Tarifa’s past.
- The Beaches: Tarifa is home to some of Spain’s most beautiful beaches, including Playa de los Lances, Playa de Valdevaqueros, and Playa Chica. These wide, sandy shores are popular with beachgoers and water sports enthusiasts.
- Roman Ruins of Baelo Claudia: Located just a short drive from Tarifa, this well-preserved Roman city features a forum, temples, a basilica, and a fish-salting factory.
Tarifa’s architecture and culture reflect its long history of Moorish and Spanish influence. Whitewashed buildings with tiled roofs and narrow, winding streets give it a distinctly Andalusian feel, but being only 10kms across the sea from Morocco, you can also feel you are in North Africa. It’s definitely a town which blends cultural influences and has a really unique feel to it.
And, although I don’t think we’ll go the whole hog and take part in any of the activities on offer, such as wind-surfing, paddle boarding, kiting etc, we’ll definitely return to this most southerly part of Spain, with its very unique vibe.
by Helen | Aug 30, 2024 | Spain, Travel
We recently made a very exciting trip to Jimena de la Frontera, one Andalucia’s white washed villages, deep in the south west of the region. More on why we were visiting here. We had to do an overnight stay and so set about finding somewhere that matched our criteria – a bit quirky, boutique style, not hugely expensive and close to enough to the main amenities, including restaurants and bars. We’d never been to Jimena before, but loved the journey to get there – through beautiful countryside, dotted with white villages, cork tree forests (yes, these are a thing!), haciendas and very dried out river beds. As well as so many herons’ nests, on top of electricity pylons, some empty, some with a lone heron sitting on guard, and some with a pair, snuggled up together. As we approached Jimena, it looked as beautiful as we had hoped it might be – white washed houses tumbling down the hill, and a castle sitting at the top. A place we definitely though we could call home.
Casa Henrietta is a renovated townhouse on Calle Sevilla, the main street up leading from the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, The houses on Calle Sevilla are mostly very grand in appearance – lots of ornate shutters, wrought iron work around the windows, balconies, double doors, evidence of roof terraces. And one very special house, that we had an appointment to see the next day.
But onto Casa Henrietta. Located about a third of the way up the hill, it is an elegant white townhouse from the outside. Once inside though, you really how huge it actually is. The ground floor has an impressive communal lounge and seating area, with an open area where local artisans and craftspeople are able to sell their products. I have my eye already on a beautiful cream rug, which I know will eventually fit perfectly in our renovated house. The furnishings on this floor are very eclectic – lots of mixing and matching of styles and colours and fabrics. Lush plants hang down at different heights, complementing huge palms which sit in big urns and Moroccan style pots, with lots of artwork on the walls and thick curtains for texture. The best part of this lounging/reception area, is the enormous free standing bath, surrounded by plants and with a water feature, which sounds very peaceful and tranquil. Moroccan lanterns and Andalucian tiles add to the lushness.
We had a very large double room on the first floor, with a large terrace overlooking the countryside outside of Jimena. The decor is clearly the owner’s style – very colourful and again, eclectic. Lovely definitely, but perhaps a little too much colour for me. The house also benefits from a roof top terrace, which has the potential to be utterly stunning, but maybe a little too shabby chic. Seating areas definitely weren’t the most comfortable, but the views were astounding.
The house also has a restaurant, which certainly when we’ve stayed is only open on a Thursday – which has been very lucky for us, as each time we’ve stayed, a Thursday has been included. There is a very pretty courtyard, full of palms and potted plants and nooks and crannies full of interesting objects. There are plenty of tables, but there’s also lots of privacy from the tall plants. The menu is small – a selection of very, very tasty home made pizzas and delicious, fresh salads, and I have to say, each time we have eaten here, we’ve been super impressed. Locals also seem to come to here to eat, so it’s not a restaurant just for hotel guests, and it does seem to be a bit of hub for people to get together. Local wine is also on offer – and we’ve yet to try an Andalucian wine that is anything other than fabulous.
We’re very happy to have a hotel like this on Calle Sevilla, because if all goes according to plan, we may be quite frequent guests over the next few months…
by Helen | Aug 23, 2024 | Spain, Travel
Archidona first came onto our radars when we caught an episode of “A Place In The Sun” and this was the location. Not many places on this TV programme immediately appeal to us, as many are in tourist hot-spots, but Archidona, with its cobbled streets and white washed houses, perched high up on a hill, piqued our interest and we started to research properties, online. A few really caught our attention, and we book marked them, with the intention of viewing them, if still available, when we eventually came out to Andalucia.
Fast forward to us being in Andalucia, having sold our house in Istria, and the situation had somewhat changed. Houses that we had been interested in, had obviously been sold or were reserved – and a beautiful townhouse in another pueblo blanco had stolen our hearts. Although we’d only viewed it online, it interested us sufficiently to really do our homework, and we realised that the location of the house, in Jimena de la Frontera, was much more suited to us, than an inland town, which in reality was quite remote. However, our drive across Andalucia, took us near to Archidona and we decided we’d stay a couple of nights in the town, to get a feel for it and see if our minds were changed. We found the very beautiful Hostal Aljibe online, and had a short, but utterly amazing – and very inspirational – stay, in this renovated townhouse. This boutique hotel will be the subject of a separate blog, while this one will focus on our thoughts on Archidona.
It is a picturesque town that offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, and definnitely encapsulates the charm of southern Spain. Located in the province of Málaga, in the autonomous community of Andalucia, it is situated at the foothills of the Sierra de Graciais known for its rich historical heritage, stunning architecture, and beautiful natural surroundings. One of the town’s most iconic landmarks is the Plaza Ochavada, an octagonal square built in the 18th century, and considered to be one of the finest examples of Andalusian baroque urban design, and is surrounded by beautiful buildings with red brick and whitewashed facades.
The ruined remains of Archidona Castle, a Moorish fortress, can still be seen on the Sierra de Gracia, the defensive walls and gates also being remnants of the town’s Moorish past. But its deep history goes back further, dating back to ancient times, with evidence of human settlement from the Neolithic period. The town was an important Roman settlement and later a significant Moorish stronghold during the Al-Andalus period. The town’s name is derived from its Arabic name, Arxiduna. Which is also the name of the most famous restaurant in town, located on the historic Plaza Ochavada. The restaurant stands out for its unique blend of traditional Andalusian cuisine with modern culinary techniques. The menu offers a diverse selection of dishes, including Mediterranean classics with influences from Asian, Indian, and African cuisines, and known for its creative approach to food, Arxiduna has earned a reputation as one of the top dining spots in the area.
We had an amazing meal at this restaurant, on the square, as the sun was setting and dropping down behind the plaza. Tapas with a twist would be the best way I could describe it. All of the menu is only in Spanish, and if your Spanish is as limited as ours is currently, you have to just have faith in your phone app, as the staff don’t speak a lot of English. However, we didn’t mind this at all – with the reputation the restaurant has, we figured whatever we ordered would be delicious and well cooked and executed. And, we were right. For such top notch food, in such a prime location, in a well renowned restaurant, we were expecting quite a hefty bill at the end. And a hefty bill would have been worth it. However, we paid no more than we have done in all of our eating out experiences across Andalucia. A restaurant which truly focuses on food and the experience, rather than getting as much out of customers as possible.
We really enjoyed our stay in Archidona, and will definitely make a point of returning, both to stay again in Hostal Aljibe and eat again in Arxiduna. However, we didn’t change our minds about investigating it further as a place to live full time. Like many Spanish towns, especially in the summer, it is almost deserted during the heat of the day, coming to life at night. This isn’t necessarily a problem, but Archidona is just a little too remote and so probably not ideal for us, having spent the last seven years in a very remote location. A perfect place to visit, just not make our permanent home.
by Helen | Aug 22, 2024 | Lifestyle
Currently, most of what we own is in a storage unit, back in Istria, and we are travelling light (although the packed car would suggest otherwise), as we move around Andalucia, getting to know the region of our new home. The purchase hasn’t completed yet, so we don’t know when we can begin to arrange bringing everything over, but what is packed away in boxes, is already beginning to fade in my memory. I’m sure it will all be reassuringly familiar when we do start to unwrap and unpack, but it has given me the opportunity to consider the kind of house we want to create, rather than shoe-horning everything in and trying to make everything that was at home in Istria, as at home in a very different kind of house.
One thing that I know we will definitely incorporate, however, is beautiful Andalucian crockery. I mean, do you even live in Andalucia if you don’t have beautifully painted and patterned bowls and dishes and plates? In the new house, we are very lucky to have a big roof terrace, where a kitchen will be built so that we can make the most of the weather and the views, and I think this is where we will incorporate splashes of Spanish colour.
I am so looking forward to heading out and visiting those fabulous roadside pottery places, which are awash with colour and vibrancy. Plates and bowls stacked high. All colours, patterns, shapes and sizes. Matched sets or mis-matched, it doesn’t matter. Some will be used in the kitchen, some will be used decoratively on walls, some will be filled with fresh fruit. These places are real treasure troves, and prices are so much more competitive than in the boutique-y shops in towns.
Even more exciting though, is the opportunity to take the ferry across to Tangier from Tarifa or Algeciras and get into the souks. Tagine pots are on our shopping list, as well as rugs and cushions and Moorish ceramic tiles and lanterns and lights…
But, before any retail therapy can even be considered, we need to get the purchase completed and those keys in our hands. Both sets of solicitors are currently on their annual Spanish holidays, but things are in place for everything to start moving again in September. And, as there should be no unexpected complications – our solicitor has done all of the due diligence – we are hoping that we can complete quite quickly. And, get shopping…
by Helen | Aug 15, 2024 | Interiors
Denia holds some lovely memories for us. Over twenty five years ago, we rented a big villa with a pool and holidayed there with friends. None of us had very much money and a two week holiday was a big outlay, but we had such a great time. We have briefly re-visited since, and found the villa we had rented. Back in the day, it was one of the last villas before the land gave away to the slopes of the massif of Montgó, which forms the last spur of the huge Cordillera Prebética mountain range that runs across southern Spain from Andalucia to the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. It rises to 753m and dominates the skyline for a fair distance. Now however, villas encroach the mountain and it is a very different landscape. In our heads, we always thought that we were very close to Denia, but in reality, we realised that we were a good 10kms out of town – and so this time, we decided to try and stay right in the heart of things.
La Posada del Mar wasn’t the cheapest option we looked it, but its location, right on the sea front, was perfect and the hotel itself looked beautiful. And we were not disappointed. Situated at the foot of Denia Castle, the famous 13th century building, which was donated by the Spanish King James I to William of Cardona in 1243, has been painstakingly restored and renovated. Our room, with a small balcony overlooking the port, was modern and contemporary in design, with a natural palette. The sleeping/living area was huge, with subtle furnishings and lighting and accessories, giving an overall feeling of calm and relaxation.
However, for me, it was the communal/public areas of the hotel, which were the most amazing. With exposed stone walls, under-lighting and mood-lighting, historical artefacts and beautiful accessories, as well as the aroma of beautiful candles and diffusers, these areas were an absolute joy to discover.
Although we only stayed for one night, it was enough time to absorb lots of the design influences and the colour palettes. We have a clear idea of what we’d like our new home in Spain to eventually look like, but experiencing places like La Posada de Mar, gives us lots of inspiration. As well as creating lots of lovely memories…
