by Helen | Aug 14, 2024 | Italy, Spain, Travel
Our trip from Istria, all the way down to Andalucia, has been an absolute adventure, revisiting places we’ve not been to in a long while, and taking in new places we wouldn’t necessarily see. Even though we were driving, we decided to cut out the route along the south of France and down into Spain. As beautiful as this is, it would have added a lot of time and expense to the journey and we’d done it in September 2023, so we decided this time to take the overnight car ferry from Genoa to Barcelona. It definitely wasn’t cheap – at just over €500 – but we figured what it what cost us in money, we’d get back in being able to get out of the car and have a good few hours of relaxation, before a good night’s sleep. So, we left Bologna and drove across some breath taking scenery in Emilia Romagna, before crossing into Liguria. The countryside was lush and green, and dotted with hilltop towns, always with a towering campanile. The roads were pretty effortless, even in early July, and on some stretches, we were the only car for miles.
Once we crossed into Liguria, the landscape changed, the greeness giving way to mountains, which had been quarried and hewn into – these marble quarries near Genoa primarily produce a type of marble known as Lavagna slate (or “Ligurian slate”). This slate has been historically significant for the region, especially for roofing, flooring, and other architectural uses, and although not as famous as the Carrara marble from Tuscany, Ligurian slate has its own importance and distinct characteristics. The marble and slate from the Ligurian quarries have been integral to the region’s economy, especially during the Renaissance and Baroque periods, when they were used extensively in local architecture. Quite exhilarating to drive past so many white quarries.
From the Ligurian mountains, we drove down towards the coast and were soon heading towards Genoa – and it was lovely to curve around the bay of Camogli, another place we visited a good few years ago but still had lovely memories of the pastel coloured buildings fringing the beach. And there they all were, still. Genoa is a huge city, and after living quite a rural life, for the last few years, it was a bit of thrill to be back in a hot, sweltering, melting pot of a noisy city, once again. We also hit rush hour, which normally would be a nightmare, but we just enjoyed soaking up the frenetic journey, with scooters whizzing past us, police cars and ambulances screaming around the city, traffic being regulated by the police, pedestrians weaving in out of the traffic and all the time, the hot, hot sun beating down.
We made a good decision hotel-wise, in Genoa, opting for somewhere we’d never normally consider – a Holiday Inn. Because we had to navigate the port the next day, we wanted somewhere fairly close, and somewhere that had a restaurant, plus parking. We knew we’d be tired after the long drive and didn’t want to complicate things and this turned out to be a great decision, as the Holiday Inn actually really surpassed our expectations. We had a room on a high floor, overlooking Genoa and the port and with a cracking sunset view. Car parking was secure and safe, and best of all, as we’ve come to expect in Italy, the restaurant was exceptional. Decor wise it was nothing to write home about, but the food was of such a high standard, that I still remember the taste of my seasonal vegetable soup and the trofie al pesto. Absolutely gorgeous – and washed down with excellent local white wine.
After a good night’s sleep, we were raring to go to catch the ferry, which was due to sail at noon. We’d booked the sailing to Barcelona, but had we investigated a little more closely, we’d have seen that the ferry then sailed onto Tangier, which would have cut out a whole lot of driving as the houses we were intending to view were in south western Andalucia, so we could have just hopped onto another ferry over to Tarifa. But, you live and learn, and in hindsight, we’ve explored and discovered so much more driving down from Barcelona, than we would have done if we’d sailed around the Spanish coast. Anyway, back to our scheduled noon departure. which didn’t happen – for some unknown reason there was a four hour delay, which meant, as we’d already checked in and were in the car queue, sitting in an increasingly sweltering car. I am also very glad I wasn’t in the driving seat, on this occasion, because when we did eventually board, the car had to be driven on forward, and then a very, very tight reverse manoeuvre had to be performed to get it facing the other way. It was pretty chaotic in the depths of the ferry by this stage, and I think we were just both relieved to get out of the car and up on the decks.
It was actually quite sad as we set sail – much more so than when we left Istria – because all of a sudden it felt very real, and I didn’t know when we’d next be in Italy. I think over the last few years, I’ve taken it for granted that we could cross over in Italy so easily, and all of a sudden, as the ferry sailed out of the Bay of Genoa, I realised that it may be quite some time before we return…
Our cabin was an internal one, and although it was for four people, like cabins on ferries, it was boxy and small and pretty claustrophobic, so we spent as little time in it as possible. The top deck of the ferry was beautiful as the ship sailed out of the port, but once it gathered a bit of speed, the wind whipped spray all around us and we had no choice but to retreat indoors – but not before we saw dolphins in the Bay of Genoa. Seven years in Istria and not a sighting of a dolphin! Half an hour on the ferry and we saw five or six jumping in and out the sea, following the wake of the ferry. Magical!
Thankfully, we didn’t have too long to wait until what was billed as the a la carte restaurant, opened. I was a bit dismissive of the idea of this a la carte restaurant. I mean, a la carte, on a car ferry? But then, I hadn’t taken into account that this was an Italian ferry. And, the food was, once again, magnificent! I did wish I had opted for one of the fish dishes, but I wrongly, very wrongly, assumed, the fish would be frozen. What we ordered was delicious – pasta and pizza – but the fish which was arriving at tables around us, was nothing short of amazing. Next time, though, I’ll know. Sleep was pretty fitful, as every noise was magnified, and at some point, we must have hit waves, as there was quite bit of turbulence but I must have also managed to get some shut eye, as the next thing I knew, we were being awoken by the crackling tannoy, announcing in French, Italian and English, that we would soon be arriving in Barcelona. By 9pm, we’d disembarked and were navigating our way out of the city, past Christopher Columbus, at the bottom of Las Ramblas, to head south and begin our big, Spanish adventure…
by Helen | Aug 9, 2024 | Lifestyle
Since our house in Istria went on the market in March 2024, after we completed the new garden to the rear of the house and did much internal refurbishment, our minds have been focused on finding our new home. We knew that our Istrian adventure had come to an end. For us, personally, we felt that our location was no longer quite right for us. Having to drive literally everywhere had started to take its toll and the lack of amenities in our immediate area, was really starting to do our heads in. When we had people staying with us, this was all fine and very doable, simply because we had other people staying. But when it was just the two of us, we started to feel that we needed more. So, the discussions started about where we might live next – and pretty quickly, we realised it wasn’t going to be Istria. As much as we love Italy, it probably wasn’t going to be here either, because of property prices (often too high for our budget, often too low with no potential to really increase the value of properties due to location) and bureaucracy which made Croatia seem sane. We ruled out France, too, after our road trip there last year – stunning, affordable properties, but often in places which were too far from the next nearest place, therefore potentially giving us the Istrian issues all over again.
So, our focus returned again to Spain, for lots of reasons. We love Spain. We know lots of areas in Spain. We’re familiar with Spain. We’ve been a fair few times, so feel comfortable with the idea of Spain. And houses are plentiful. Some are obviously way out of our price range, but lots are affordable. Lots have real potential. Lots are renovated. But the main thing which focused is, is that there is choice. Choice in location, style, condition, price. And so the search was on…
But Spain is a BIG country! Where to begin? Well, our logic was to begin with places we knew well. Barcelona – gorgeous and potentially the dream, but unless we bought way out of the city, we couldn’t afford very much. Also, did we really want to be in a big city? Probably not. Alicante and Valenica were discounted for similar reasons. Coastal towns also discounted because of the property prices, property sizes and the summer influx of tourists would ultimately do my head in, if we made one of these places our full time home.I also watched “A Place in the Sun” a lot! Not so much to follow the stories of people hoping to buy, but to get up to speed with other areas we didn’t know a lot about. And this is how we made our first inroads into serious house-hunting. We saw a couple of episodes, one which focused on Archidona and one on Alhama de Granada, both inland, white washed towns, in Andalucia. And after investigating estate agents websites, we did find two houses were very interested in, one in each town. We couldn’t just hop on a plane and view – we were in the middle of selling our house and experience told us, we needed to be accessible and around to answer questions, send documentation, and all that selling a house entails. So, I made contact with the estate agents and made sure they knew of our circumstances and continued to research the towns.
One in particular really piqued our interest in Alhama de Granada. Fully renovated, to our style, and from the photographs, looking like we could almost move straight in, but with the added advantage of potentially being to add value as we could improve the roof terrace and renovate the lower rooms which hadn’t been touched…
We communicated with the estate agents a lot about this house – but ultimately, it wasn’t meant to be. It was taken off the market by the owners, and although we felt disappointed and a bit deflated, through continued research, we realised that the area, as beautiful as it is, wasn’t right for us, because it was just a bit too inland. Another house we looked at a lot, was located in Archidona – this one was also renovated to our taste, had a roof pool and was next door to a beautiful boutique hotel, run by a couple from Chorlton. Small world, but again, it wasn’t meant to be as this one was snapped up. We think, over the weeks we were looking, we saw every town house that was available in Andalucia, from Almeria in the east down to Cadiz in the west. And, then, completely out of the blue, Lady Luck struck.
We discovered the white washed town of Jimena de la Frontera and were very taken by what we saw and read online. The location was pretty much perfect – about 30 minutes from the coast, 45 minutes from Tarifa and a couple of hours from Malaga and Seville. One estate agent’s website, in particular, became our go-to site and we earmarked four or five properties we were interested in and began making contacts. One property was listed as “Sold” but of curiosity, I checked it out and it literally jumped off the page! It was gorgeous and just about everything we had been looking for, so I contacted the agent and asked that if anything similar came his way, to please let us know. And guess what? The owners had decided to sell and it would be going back on the market! We knew we couldn’t just pop off to Spain and view, as we were in the middle of selling our house and getting everything into storage, so we had to cross everything, that this Andalucian beauty would still be available when we got out there at the beginning of July…
Fast forward to mid July, and we had arrived in Jimena, with a list of five houses to view. Our favourite was first on the list – and let’s just say, after viewing it, we didn’t even bother with the others. We had found the one!
We had half-heartedly agreed that we didn’t really want to take on another renovation project, UNLESS we found something utterly irresistible. Well, we think we have. On the main street in the white washed town, this elegant, double fronted town house is less than a minute from the main square and the bars and restaurants. Exactly what we wanted after our isolated village in Istria. So, we’ve acted very quickly – with the help of the estate agent (again, small world – he used to work in the Steak & Kebab restaurant in Didsbury village in the late 80s!), we’ve secured a solicitor and had a builder who lives opposite the house, and has renovated one of the town houses on the street, come check out the house, and he’s given it the seal of approval, after we discussed with him our plans and vision. And so, earlier this week, we signed the pre-contract and paid the deposit on our what has become our dream house! It’s all happened very quickly, and although we are now in Spanish holiday season and both solicitors are on vacation, we know that come September, we’ll be a whole lot closer to organising the transportation of our belongings and furniture from Istria to Andalucia!
by Helen | Aug 8, 2024 | Croatia, Travel
When the San Servolo resort opened again, post lockdown, it was clear they had been keeping themselves very busy. As well as the Steak House and hotel, it looked as if the company had been expanding the site. Our first trip out, when we were allowed to mix and socialise again, was to the new San Servolo Pizzeria. This was a bit of a game-changer for us, as most restaurants near our home were very traditional Istrian konobas and we had missed being able to dine out on pizzas. The restaurant – cool in design, so again a real change from the decor of most local restaurants – became a real staple for us, and visiting family and friends, who all loved it too. As well as the restaurant, an outdoor pool had also been built, and a number of beautiful chalets. We were determined to stay here, even though it was only thirty minutes from home, as we just wanted to do the whole San Servolo experience, and be able to relax with a few drinks when having pizzas.
Unfortunately for us, the chalets at San Servolo, have proven to be extremely popular, and no matter how many times I have looked to make a booking, we’ve been out of luck, as there has never been any availability. However, when we vacated our little apartment in Porec, after moving out of the house, I decided that another couple of days of R&R were needed before we set off on our road trip to Andalucia, and so I tried San Servolo again. As usual – and unsurprising as it was July – the chalets were fully booked, but I did manage to secure a deluxe room in the San Sevolo Villa. And, what a great choice! A lovely big room, as stylishly designed as the rest of the resort, with a big sun terrace and sun loungers, overlooking the grounds. A perfect place to relax even further, after our last few frantic weeks in the house.
Of course, the pizzas featured heavily on both nights, and it was great to finally experience the restaurant, and be able to have another glass of wine, as we were just walking through the gardens to get “home”. Breakfast on both mornings was of a really high standard – buffet style, and as much as you wanted. And, because we realised that this may well have been our last visit to San Servolo we stocked up on their beer (brewed on site and very well renowned in Istria) and a bottle of speciality gin.
Staying at San Servolo, and having our last meals here, made our last couple of days in Istria very special – a place we have long wanted to stay at, and it is where we finished our Istrian adventure…
by Helen | Aug 4, 2024 | Croatia, Travel
When we moved to Istria, we naively thought that our lives would be one long holiday. I mean, that’s why people come to Istria in their thousands. To holiday. But we quickly got into a groove of living in Istria permanently, and it became too easy to “live”. We still had to work. We still had to work on the house. We still had to do regular shopping trips. We did go away a lot, but over the seven years we were there, there were just some places we didn’t associate with *holidays*. And Poreč was definitely one of them. We associated Poreč with admin stuff – our bank’s main branch was there, the most efficient TCom store was there (and we became regular visitors here, as we always had some kind of an internet issue, so the efficiency level, whilst the best we had encountered in Istria, wasn’t technically the best), big supermarkets were there, a big garden centre. So, although it we did visit it, we probably didn’t see it with the same eyes as family saw it, who always loved and highly rated this coastal town. According to Wikipedia, Poreč is a town on the western coast of the Istrian peninsula, its major landmark being the 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The town is almost 2,000 years old, and is set around a harbour protected from the sea by the small island of Sveti Nikola/San Nicola (Saint Nicholas).
So, why the love for Pore, now, when we’ve sold up and we are moving on? Well, simply because we’ve now had a glimpse of it as a holiday destination rather than an admin pit-stop. When we moved out in early July, we were, quite honestly, too knackered to even begin contemplating the drive across Italy, the ferry journey and the drive from Barcelona to south west Spain. The decision was made to book four nights in the historical centre of Poreč, where could just unwind, relax and if we needed to go to the storage unit for any last drop-offs, we could. A very cute apartment, slap bang in the middle of the Roman heart of Poreč – The Bungalow by the Sea – was booked, and it was the best decision we could have made. Situated above the family run restaurant, it was 5 minutes from the sea and in the heart of the winding, cobbled streets, with a view of a Roman arch, surrounded by very cool and chic bars and restaurants. The apartment was really quite beautiful and perfect for our four night stay. The bonus being it had a washing machine and dryer so were able to get clothes washed before we set off on our road trip. Sadly, we soon filled the apartment with the belongings we had squeezed into the car for the roadtrip, as we needed to reorganise them, so the only photos I have, have to be credited to the booking website…
The historical centre of Poreč really is quite beautiful, with many reminders of the past, and it’s no wonder it’s designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. Cobbled streets wind up from the sea, twisting and turning and always full of beautiful apartments, independent shops, cute bars and restaurants and very, very historical buildings. Unlike the area where we lived, until recently in Istria, which was very quiet and pastoral, the centre of Porec is lively and buzzing, with a real Mediterranean feel to it. It feels as if it is on the cusp of being discovered, rather than well known, and so doesn’t feel overcrowded or overly touristy. Just beautiful and interesting and well worth a meander.
However, our trip to Poreč wasn’t all fun, fun, fun. We still had to squeeze in a trip to our least favourite store of all time – TCom – to try and cancel our internet service with them and leave the routers. Unsurprisingly, our experience was the same as it has ever been – disappointing, and a complete waste of time. Four weeks on, we are still waiting for a refund issue to be resolved and we still have the two routers, travelling in our car with us, across Andalucia. Nice to see that they didn’t let us down at the final hurdle…
by Helen | Jul 30, 2024 | Italy, Travel
I’m never 100% sure about hotels or apartments with names like *Cosy Moods*. Although I should know to hold my judgement as we did once stay in an apartment in Alghero called “Holiday Fever” which exceeded our expectations. And, I’m delighted to say that Cosy Moods did the same. And more.
We booked a couple of apartments here in July, as a thank you to friends who had helped us out massively with getting all of our belongings into storage when we sold our house in Istria. They were travelling back to the UK from Verona and so were getting a train from Trieste, so we thought it was an ideal place to treat them to a night in this beautiful, but often overlooked, Italian city. The location of the building that the apartments were in, was perfect – very close to the station for our friends to leave early the next morning, and very close to the Grand Canal which we knew would be a perfect choice for dinner. Also, ideally situated for parking in the big Molo car park, right on the seafront.
Communications with Asia, the owner were excellent and with her directions, we were soon in our apartments. After a very dicey lift experience – clearly not suited for four people, it was tiny and took an age as it rattled and groaned its way up the floors. At one point, it started to get a little claustrophobic and I genuinely thought it might get stuck – but with some magic button pressing it arrived at the right floor and the doors opened, to much relief all round.
The apartments were utterly gorgeous. Renovated within a historic building, with the most amazing attention to detail. The floor of our apartment was very creaky, but unbelievably beautiful – original floors from the early 18th century, no less, so we could forgive the creaks. Furniture was minimal but carefully chosen, as was lighting. The bathroom was small, but so well designed and featuring the most exquisite marbled walls. Our view was across the rooftops of Trieste and the spires of a church opposite, so lots to drink in. But what I loved most, were true dimension prints on the walls, showing the apartment pre-renovation. They were so clever and worked so well, that you actually felt you could walk through the doorways…
The photos, above and below are close ups of the large wall prints, depicting the rooms before the renovation works.
Dinner on the Grand Canal just topped off a really lovely evening, with two very, very good friends. A wonderful time spent laughing and reminiscing and planning, as dusk fell. Perfect.
by Helen | Jul 30, 2024 | Lifestyle
Well, it has happened. On the 8th July, we turned the key in the lock for the final time and said goodbye to our much loved, renovated Istrian stonehouse and our lives for the last seven and a half years.
When we put the house up for sale in March, after the completion of the new garden to the rear of the house, we had our first viewing almost immediately and a price was agreed very quickly. We met the potential new owners a few times before we finally completed, and we could not be happier that they found our home. They *got* her and all of her quirkiness and we hope that they are now enjoying a little piece of Istrian idyll.
Once the sale was agreed and the deposit paid, we swung into action. We weren’t planning to move to the next town, so we had to be super, super organised. We were planning to move Andalucia – and I say planning, because although we had viewed houses online and had spoken to estate agents, we hadn’t had the opportunity to view anything. We also had to clear a whole house and try and get a storage unit – nothing could be transported out to Spain until we knew where we were going to be. However, finding a storage place in Istria did not prove easy. Nothing of the kind seemed to exist, until one day, we were driving back from Porec and we spotted a hoarding at the roadside advertising Blue Box Storage. Very similar to the storage places in the UK, it had recently opened. We checked it out and it was perfect for our needs, so we booked a room from 1st July, so that we could begin to start to move things. Although we’ve done this kind of move before, we still underestimated how long it would take to pack and how many trips we’d need to do, but we did start off well, packing boxes tightly and neatly, and stacking them up in our Well Room. “This is a doddle!” we thought. Stupidly.
We did lots of car trips, moving boxes and smaller items and the unit soon started to fill up. It became clear quite quickly that we were going to need some help, and a big van, and our lovely friends Amanda and Steve, who were going to be in northern Italy, offered to help. What a godsend. We hired a white van for two days, and in that time, we largely cleared what was left in the house. All of the big furniture was moved, artwork wrapped and safely transported and garden furniture dismantled and taken away. Televisions went. Comfy chairs. Kitchen stuff. And pretty soon, we had filled our large room in the the storage unit!
When Amanda and Steve left, the house felt very empty – quite literally. We had a few days of indoor camping, a few more trips to squeeze in yet more stuff into the storage unit, and then before we knew it, we were packing the car with essential belongings to lock the door for the very last time. We were so happy to share this moment with our family, who have spent many happy times in our Istrian home, and over FaceTime, they waved off the house too.
So, our lives are largely in a storage unit, with us now on the road, with a very full car. Things have progressed very quickly since we left and suffice to say, we may be arranging for that storage unit to be emptied in the very near future and all of our belongings making their way down to Andalucia, to join us…
by Helen | Jun 11, 2024 | Lifestyle
If you are a fan of deliciously creamy butter beans, you might like to try this, if like us, this method of cooking them, has so far passed you by. Roasting. Yes, that’s right, roasting then in the oven. And I guarantee, you’ll be as in love with this way of doing them, as we are…
It’s so, so simple to do, but by doing it this way, you give the beans a whole new lease of life. Smothered in olive oil, seasoning and whatever spice you choose to use, they literally crack and burst open with the best flavours, whilst still retaining that buttery, creamy, gorgeous inside. If not left roasting for too long.
All you need to is drain, rinse and pat dry a can of butter beans, then spread them evenly across a baking tray. They will roast so much better if allowed to expand and pop a little bit, so try not to have them sitting on top of each other. Smother with generous glugs of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Then just add a couple of heaped teaspoons of the spice of your choice. We used garam masala for an Indian kick, but paprika, cumin, ground coriander – whatever tickles your tastebuds – would work just as well, I think. Then, in a pre-heated oven for about 30 minutes on 180°C.
Perfect as a side dish, part of a mezze, incorporated in a salad, added to a soup. The list endless – but do try, as they are gorgeous. The photo below was ours, prepped, ready to go into the oven. Unfortunately, I failed to snap the roasted end product as was just eager to get stuck into them, as the aroma was divine. Roasted butter beans. The future…
by Helen | Jun 7, 2024 | Lifestyle
I’ve been keeping a diary/blog of our journey in our stone house in Istria, since before we moved in, in 2017. We’re now so very close, to moving. Yes, after seven years of renovating and creating a beautiful home from the shell of a building, we’re hopefully onto our next adventure. Packing boxes are now filling up The Well Room, the room designated as the storage room, as we start to pack away things which aren’t going to vital to every day living.
The last time we moved, in 2017 from Manchester to Istria, we really understimated how long it takes to pack up a house for a long distance move, and so we are aiming to be a whole lot more prepared this time. Last time, we were still boxing up belongings on the day the removal lorry arrived, and so forget various things. Including a huge green ceramic pot from the garden, and two lovely, stylish charcoal grey garden chairs. This time, we won’t be leaving anything behind that we don’t intend to.
If all goes according to plan, we complete in 1st July and vacate on 8th July, our buyers kindly having agreed to us having an extra week, to help sort our onwards move. Currently, we still don’t know exactly where to, although our online property search has narrowed to a couple of towns in south western Andalucia. We’re forging links with estate agents, solicitors who specialise in moves of our kind – one of is still an EU citizen, courtesy of Irish ancestry, the other still a UK citizen, so guess the complexities that will arise here – and a company who will transport everything we own from Istria to Andalucia, once we are settled. In the meantime, we think we’re just going to have to get used to living amongst boxes…
Until July 1st comes around, we’re still very nervous and quite anxious in case the whole things falls through. We don’t think it will, as our buyers seem very genuine, and we’re so close to the finishing line, that we’re trying to steady our nerves and reassure ourselves that any wobbles from them would have come much sooner. Plus they have a big chunk of a deposit to lose if they back out now. But we can’t settle until we’ve all signed on the dotted line and the balance has been paid. So, we’re just trying to keep upbeat and keep packing. Hoping that the next time we see our belongings will be in Andalucia…
by Helen | May 27, 2024 | Travel
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a village, Hérault department in the Occitania region in Southern France, renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture and the Abbey of Gellone, a site of historical and religious importance. The village is nestled in the Gorges de l’Hérault, providing stunning views and a serene environment – and on the recommendation of a friend, we headed out towards the village on a roadtrip. Sadly, the weather wasn’t on our side, and as we got deeper and deeper into the countryside, the clouds gathered and the rain started to fall. However, the roads we were travelling on, were spectacular, lined with the most amazing trees.
The road to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, takes you along the stunning Herault Valley, with steep, rugged cliffs, dropping down dramatically into the winding river below. You also need to cross the Pont du Diable, one of many Devil’s Bridges in France. Although the weather prevented us spending time exploring the preserved medieval village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, it was pretty much perfect for an exploration of the bridge and surroundings. Dark, brooding clouds and increasing winds, all added to the feeling of mystery.
The Pont du Diable is a remarkable medieval stone arch bridge, spanning the Hérault River and is one of several bridges in France with this name, and attributed to various legends involving the Devil. According to local legend, the construction of the bridge was fraught with difficulties, leading the monks to strike a deal with the Devil. The Devil promised to help complete the bridge in exchange for the soul of the first living being to cross it. Upon completion, the monks tricked the Devil by sending a dog across the bridge first. Enraged by the deceit, the Devil tried to destroy the bridge but failed, and the bridge has stood firm ever since.
It was constructed between 1028 and 1031 by Benedictine monks from the Abbey of Gellone (located in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert) and the Abbey of Aniane, and features a single, wide arch design, which was quite advanced for its time and demonstrates the engineering prowess of the medieval period. The bridge spans 50 meters and rises to a height of 18 meters, so is definitely a pretty impressive structure, Originally built to facilitate safe passage for pilgrims traveling to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, the bridge became an important stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, and also improved local connectivity, promoting trade and communication in the region. It is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage designation for the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. Located near the Gorges de l’Hérault, it is a scenic area perfect for hiking, swimming, and other outdoor activities – and even on the day we visited, there were very brave people jumping in and swimming.
Maybe next time, we’ll get to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, but if not, just pretty delighted that we stumbled across this particular Devil’s Bridge, albeit on a stormy day.
by Helen | May 17, 2024 | Croatia, Travel
Vrbnik is a picturesque town located on the eastern coast of the island of Krk, which is part of Croatia’s northern Adriatic region, known for its medieval architecture, stunning views, and rich cultural heritage. It dates back to medieval times, with its first documented mention in 1100 AD, and has a well-preserved old town area, featuring stone houses and and a maze of winding, narrow streets, including its most famous claim to fame – Klančić, reputed to be the narrowest street in the world, measuring just 43 centimeters at its narrowest point. Definitely not a street to try and navigate if you are even slightly claustrophobic, or with bags and luggage.
We’ve been to Vrbnik before and loved the town, but where we stayed wasn’t the best. It maybe didn’t help that it was August and temperatures had soared, rendering the aircon almost useless. The apartment, although it looked good enough online, was a bit lacking in reality, so we vowed that next time we returned, we’d find somewhere better. And, over Easter we did, when we returned with family. Design Hotel Verbenicum is located just on the outskirts of the old town, about 700 metres from Kozica Beach – but it’s such a small town, that it’s only a ten minute stroll into it. The hotel is super modern, with a huge glass frontage – if you’re lucky enough to get a room at the front – which we did – you will have views of the town and the sea, from your balcony. If you have a rear view, you’ll be overlooking the pool area, and there is a lovely garden area at the front of the hotel, so you won’t miss out on the views. We had a double room and a suite and both were super stylish – designed to a very high standard and with absolute attention to detail. We had everything we needed for an overnight stay – including proper wine glasses, which is always a bug bear of mine, when you pay for good accommodation and have to resort to using the glasses in the bathroom. So, what did we find when we stayed here?
Unfortunately, when we stayed we were still two weeks away from the pool opening, and the hotel did have the feel of having just having opened its doors, after the winter hibernation. However, we thoroughly enjoyed our short stay – and the highlight really has to be the breakfast, which was included in the price. A huge choice of fresh pastries, meats, cheeses, breads and drinks, as well as eggs done any way you wanted – and as many as you wanted, too. The restaurant, where breakfast is served overlooks the terrace and the shimmering sea beyond, and it was an utter delight to relax into the day and have a leisurely, long meal. A pretty much perfect hotel – although be warned if you have mobility issues, it’s pretty steep in places, with lots of steps. This can be avoided by parking at the front and offloading luggage and then taking the car back up to the car park. Not a hassle really, but just good to know.
